If Summer colours are not for you have a look at our other seasonal colour blogs- Spring, Autumn and Winter.
TAUKO Magazine No.10 invites you to dive into the enchanting world of 'Ballroom Dreams'. This issue features nine dazzling designs inspired by the theme 'party'. From ethereal tulle gowns to shimmering glittering vests, the collection, created by international designers, captures the essence of festive elegance.
The articles and essays embark on a journey through the vibrant history of balls, tracing the vibrant tapestry of New York's ball scene to the opulent ballrooms of interwar Berlin. Experience the transformative power of acceptance, the joyful celebration of diversity and the profound sense of belonging that Ballroom Dreams offers.
Narciso Trousers
by Francesca Barbato #TAUKOnarciso
Ex-Designer Deadstock Worsted Wool in Olive
We all need these trousers in our wardrobes! High waist, straight leg, pintucks at the front, darts, zipper at the centre back, and French pockets. Depending on the fabric, you can make trousers for special occasions or for everyday use in the office.
Ex-Designer Deadstock Olive Cotton Tencel Twill
Fabric Recommendations: Choose a light to medium-weight woven fabric such as fine wool, tailored fabric, heavy crepe or Tencel, cotton with a little bit of elastane, or jacquard.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Trousers fabric: width 55"/140 cm; length (inches)- 50 (50.8, 56.7, 68.1, 76.4) (85.8, 100.4, 102.8, 105.1)" / length (cm)- 27 (129, 144, 173, 194) (218, 255, 261, 267) cm
Wave Blouse
by Nicole Göttler #TAUKOwave
Embroidered Wildflowers on Caramel Cotton
WAVE is a blouse with wide open sleeves and a pleat at the shoulder as a distinctive design element. The wide sleeve openings make it perfect for layering over a simple top or a slim-fitting dress.
Peach Touch Cupro Viscose Twill in Black (comes in a variety of colours)
Fabric Recommendations: WAVE works best with light woven fabrics with stiffness/structure. Cottons, poplins, and seersuckers work well. For a structured look with a straight seam line at the sleeve, it’s important to choose a tightly woven, lightweight fabric with stiffness. We have chosen a lightweight embroidered cotton for this blouse for a more structured look, or alternatively for a softer silhouette with more drape we have chose a Cupro Visose blend.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Blouse fabric: width 55- 59" / 140-150 cm; length inches- 47.6 (50.4, 54.7, 52.4, 59.1) (58.7, 64.6, 61, 68.5)" / length cm- 121 (128, 139, 133, 150) (149, 164, 155, 174) cm
Iris Dress and Blouse
by Francesca Barbato #TAUKOiris
Mind the Maker Petals Rose ECOVERO Vera Crepe
IRIS can be made as either a dress or a blouse. Both versions have wide raglan puff sleeves with buttoned cuffs and openings, a fully concealed button placket, and double-fabric neck binding. The dress version is gathered at the waist with a double-fabric waistband and features a softly gathered flounce skirt. The pieces used to create this garment allow you to play with transparency or alternate between matte and glossy fabrics. IRIS is an ode to romance and elegance.
Eglantine and Zoe Carlota Pink Magenta ECOVERO Viscose Twill
Fabric Recommendations: Choose a light, flowing woven fabric such as satin, organza, georgette, chiffon, mousseline, charmeuse, crépon, silk crepe de chine, viscose, high-quality polyester, or a blend of these fibres.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Blouse main fabric: width 55"/140 cm; length inches - 61.4 (64.2, 68.9, 70.1, 73.2) (75.6, 79.5, 84.3, 88.2)" / length cm - 156 (163, 175, 178, 186) (192, 202, 214, 224) cm
Dress fabric: width 55"/140 cm, length 97.2 (106.3, 115.4, 120.9, 141.3*) (151.2*, 163.4*, 171.7*, 181.7**)" / 247 (270, 293, 307, 359*) (384*, 415*, 436*, 464**) cm
*Note: For sizes 5–8, the back bottom tier is turned to the opposite grainline. The width of the hem is greater than the width of the fabric. Take this into account when choosing your fabric for the dress.
** Note: For size 9, the back top tier and the back bottom tier are turned to the opposite grainline. The width of the hem is greater than the width of the fabric. Take this into account when choosing your fabric for the dress.
Claudette Dress
by Violette Tannenbaum #TAUKOclaudette
Elegance Mauve Plain Viscose Poplin
CLAUDETTE is a beautiful tulle dress that will make your romantic dreams come true. You can make a short version by attaching just the top two ruffles, or make a full-length gown by adding the third ruffle. Make a detachable belt from the same fabric to emphasize the waist. If you want to get wild, play with different colours or shades for the ruffles.
Fabric Recommendations: CLAUDETTE works best in light, sheer fabrics such as tulle, which won’t fray when cut. This dress requires a lot of fabric due to its voluminous shape and sheer style. Note that all the ruffles are made with double layers and the edges are left raw.
If you would like to make this dress in a fluid viscose we would recommend doing a narrow rolled hem or narrow overlock finish on all pieces. The ruffle pieces could also be single layer instead of double to cut back on the fabric requirements and the weight of the dress.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Dress fabric for maxi version (three ruffles): width 55"/140 cm; length inches- 692.5 (733.1, 773.6, 814.2, 874.4) (942.1, 982.7, 1014.2, 1046.5)" / length cm- 1759 (1862, 1965, 2068, 2221) (2393, 2496, 2576, 2658) cm
Dress fabric for short version (two ruffles): width 55"/140 cm; length inches- 421.7 (441.3, 463.8, 483.9, 507.9) (538.2, 564.2, 578.7, 598.4)" / length cm- 1071 (1121, 1178, 1229, 1290) (1367, 1433, 1470, 1520) cm
Baby Cos Dress
by Kossoma Kernem #TAUKObabycos
Abstract Waves Green Viscose Poplin
The BABY COS dress has a boxy bodice combined with a gathered skirt, making the design simple and inspiring for many variations and hacks.
Version A follows the idea of the original design inspiration with a large Peter Pan collar finished with facings and a boxy dartless bodice, puffed sleeves, knee-length gathered skirt, and pockets. Version B is collarless and has an elongated skirt for a dramatic, floor-sweeping maxi dress.
Elegance Cobalt Blue Plain Viscose Poplin
Fabric Recommendations: You can go full toddler with version A, with a crisp cotton or seersucker bodice and a contrasting stiff front bodice. Go wild with the front bodice, using quilting, embroidery, pleating, corduroy! Or keep it more subtle with version B in a light drapey fabric and matching bias binding. Or even sheer!
Fabric Requiements:
For sizes 1 (2,3,4,5) (6,7,8,9):
Dress fabric (version A):width 55"/140 cm,; length inches- 85 (87, 90.9, 96.5, 125.6) (157.9, 169.7, 176, 191.3)" / length cm- 216 (221, 231, 245, 319) (401, 431, 447, 486) cm
If making version B add extra length required to make a maxi.
Mirabel Skirt
by Amélie Grenon #TAUKOmirabel
Mind the Maker Plain Blonde Yellow ECOVERO Leia Viscose Crepe
MIRABEL is a mini skirt with a gathered waist and flounces at the bottom.
It’s constructed from rectangles, so you don’t need a paper pattern to make your own version of the design. With handy side pockets and an elastic waistband, it’s an easy-to-wear piece that looks great with both casual and formal outfits. If you’re a beginner, don’t worry about the French seam and narrow/rolled hem, as these seam finishing techniques are super easy to learn!
Atelier Brunette Java Rust ECOVERO Viscose Crepe
Fabric Recommendations: MIRABEL should be made from light or medium-weight non-stretch fabrics such as poplin and twill, rayon/viscose fabrics, linen-viscose or cotton- viscose mixes, or sandwashed linen. The fabric can be very flowing and light weight, as long as it is dark enough not to be see-through.
Fabric Requirements: For the MIRABEL skirt you need two measurements: your natural body hip circumference and the desired length of the finished skirt. Fabric requirements are given by piece in the instructions based on these measurements.
Aquilegia Jacket and Vest
by Francesca Barbato #TAUKOaquilegia
Ex-Designer Deadstock Worsted Wool Olive
AQUILEGIA is an oversized jacket that comes in two versions (with or without sleeves). It has a loose, comfortable fit and all the details of a classic jacket: Lapel collar, welt pockets, and darts. Both versions are fully lined to create a classy garment par excellence.
Eglantine and Zoe Ramo Jacquard Black
Fabric Recommendations: Choose a light to medium-weight woven fabric like fine wool, tailored fabric,heavy crepe or Tencel, or jacquard.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Jacket fabric: width 55"/140 cm; length inches- 109.4 (110.6, 114.6, 119.7, 129.9) (134.3, 138.6, 144.5, 146.5)" / length cm- 278 (281, 291, 304, 330)(341, 352, 367, 372) cm
Lining: width 55"/140 cm; length inches- 68.9 (70.9, 72.4, 75.2, 84.6) (90.6, 94.1, 97.6, 100.8)" / length cm- 175 (180, 184, 191, 215) (230, 239, 248, 256) cm
Breeze Cream Aubergine Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
Flöde Dress
by Josefine Hultén #TAUKOflöde
Colour Bundles Ocean Essential Chic Cotton Jersey
The FLÖDE dress is named after the Swedish word for “flow” and is inspired by movement. The lines of the design flow over the body, creating a fun and striking effect. Although this piece may look complicated to make, it’s actually quite straightforward. The garment comes together with just a few seams to create a knee-length dress with a figure-hugging fit and a 3⁄4 sleeve. Choose two contrasting fabrics for version A or make version B for a simple “bodycon” dress.
Snug Viscose Blend Sweater Knit in Wasabi Green
Fabric Recommendations: FLÖDE can be made from a wide variety of knits and jerseys. It works best in light to medium-weight knits with four-way stretch. Our Essential Chic Colour Bundles are ideal for version A.
Fabric Requirements:
For sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Dress fabric for version A, fabric A: width 59"/150 cm; length inches- 22.8 (25.6, 27.6, 27.6, 27.6) (31.5, 33.5, 35.4, 41.3)" / length cm- 58 (65, 70, 70, 70) (80, 85, 90, 105) cm
Dress fabric for version A, fabric B: width 59"/150 cm; length inches- 29.9 (30.3, 30.7, 33.5, 34.3) (35.4, 40.6, 41.3, 45.7)" / length cm- 76 (77, 78, 85, 87) (90, 103, 105, 116) cm
Dress fabric for version B: width 59"/150 cm; length inches- 41.7 (42.1, 42.5, 42.9, 43.3) (44.1, 44.5, 45.3, 45.7)" / 106 cm- (107, 108, 109, 110) (112, 113, 115, 116) cm
Three Sisters Collars
by Bren Larsen #TAUKOthreesisters
Ditsy Meadow Pink on Navy Cotton Lawn
The THREE SISTERS collar set is a collection of three detachable collars. SOPHIE is an oversized collar that is pointed at the centre front but rounds out from front to back. MARY has dramatic, oversized points at the front and is rounded at the back. WENDY is a delicate Peter-Pan-style collar that is rounded at the front and back.
Ditsy Cottage Flowers Black Cotton Lawn
Fabric Recommendations: This pattern will work with most woven fabrics. Recommended fabrics include quilting cotton, cotton lawn, linen, needlecord, flannel, and lightweight wool. For lightweight fabrics, you may want to add interfacing to give the collar more stability. For even more of a statement collar, use sequined fabric, velvet, or even faux fur!
Fabric Requirements:
SOPHIE with ruffle and ties: width 55"/140 cm, length 27.6"/70 cm
MARY: width 55"/140 cm, length 23.6"/60 cm
WENDY: width 55"/140 cm, length 21.6"/32 cm
This is the perfect project to make with many of our Remnant pieces.
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Is winter not your favourite season? The latest Fibre Mood edition 26 is bound to make you change your mind...❄️
Warm up with 12 brand new patterns, with handy tutorials and variations to create different versions of your favourite patterns. Are you looking for a cosy cardigan, elegant jumpsuit, classy skirt or are you secretly already looking ahead to the holidays and can't wait to create that perfect party dress? Then this edition is perfect for you! So get going with edition 26, because what could be more fun than adding to your own wardrobe on a cold winter day?
🪡 ✨Addie, Cloud, Nova, Pax and the other Fibre Mood newcomers are already eager to introduce themselves to you! ✨
Addie Jumpsuit
A jumpsuit mixes style and comfort, making it a must-have in any wardrobe. Addie adds an exotic touch with its cropped, roomy grown on sleeves. Your waist is elegantly cinched: the straps seem to visually start from the front and wrap around the jumpsuit as much as you like. Even more freedom of choice: both the sleeves and the trousers can be made longer or just shorter according to your taste.
Deadstock Houndstooth Wool Blend Suiting
Fabric recommendations: Depending on the desired effect, choose a supple fabric that has a lovely drape, or something with a bit more body. If you would like a more drapy silhouette, go for viscose (crepe), chambray, crepon, satin or a woollen fabric. Semi-soft lyocell, seersucker is also a nice option. Prefer a sharper silhouette? Then choose poplin or twill cotton.
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Peat Moss
Deadstock Pure Wool Crepe Fabric in Navy
Beryl Dress
An elegant autumn favourite: this shirt dress plays with contrasts. On the one hand, Beryl was given a blouse like top with pleats, while on the other, the skirt is stylishly fitted to enhance the silhouette. The sleeves are cropped and made extra graceful by the pleats at the hem. The midi length dress falls to the calves, but you can of course adjust it to your taste.
Meet Milk Dusty Blue Two Tone Check with Tencel Lyocell
Fabric recommendations: This shirt dress Bitta comes into its own in lyocell, poplin, viscose(crepe) and seersucker. And of course, a fine rib knit will give you a gorgeous autumn classic.
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Grass Green Combed Cotton
Cloud Dress
Playful with class: this ultra-feminine dress gets a cut-out with
a tie in an interesting place, providing a striking detail as well
as elegant draping. Furthermore, there are pleats at the round neckline to enhance the effect. This midi dress is cut on the bias, closes with a concealed zip and has a 7/8 sleeve with a slight puff effect. It looks like a difficult project, but it really isn't. Don't be put off!
Roo-Tid Abundance Ecovero Viscose Twill
Fabric recommendations: The elegance of this dress comes into its own by choosing a fabric with good drape, such as viscose twill, lyocell or cupro. Stiff fabrics will not achieve the desired effect as much. Avoid fabrics that are too thin.
Peach Touch Cupro Viscose Twill
Daria Pinafore
Daria is the perfect dress for inclement autumn days. This fitted dungaree dress pairs nicely with a jumper or roll-neck sweater, but of course you can also wear a blouse underneath. The deep cut both at the front and the back give the classic look of dungarees with a fun twist. Furthermore, this dress has deep pockets, belt loops and shoulder straps with adjustable buckles.
21 Wale Cotton Needlecord in Lilac
Fabric recommendations: Opt for a stiffer fabric such as twill cotton, jeans and rib velvet or try a woollen fabric with sufficient weight. Classics like a pied-de-poule or prince-de-galles give a surprisingly stylish effect.
Lise Tailor Caramel Gabardine Stretch Cotton Twill
Flavia Jacket
From jeans to a pencil skirt to a classic dress: Flavia pairs effortlessly with any garment, making it a timeless must-have. This short cardigan with round neck and extended shoulder line has set in, straight sleeves. The pleats at the hem create a nice volume and add extra shape to the garment. Tip: look for fancy buttons to make this cardigan really special.
Cousette Winter Shade Charcoal Jacquard Fabric
Fabric recommendations: A knitted fabric obviously forms a perfect match, but you could just as easily go with a woven fabric. With the former, you get a cardigan effect, while the latter turns Flavia into a pretty jacket.
Cousette Saguaro Green Cotton Gabardine
Cousette Diamonds Jacquard Fabric
Hoda Vest
Sleeveless beauty: the debardeur is also unmissable this autumn. With Hoda, we make an original version of it. The eye-catchers are the ribbons that can be left hanging loosely or playfully tied. Another surprise: the back section of this round-neck spencer is longer than the front section. Combine Hoda with a loose blouse underneath for a striking look.
Snug Viscose Blend Sweater Knit in Lemon Melange
Fabric recommendations: Knitted fabrics are of course particularly suitable for this debardeur, but this pattern also lends itself to woven fabrics. A stylish jacquard or a fabric with an interesting structure / texture will undoubtedly give a very nice result.
Snug Viscose Blend Sweater Knit in Red Wine
Sharlene used our Snug Sweater Knit in Rust to make the Hoda Vest (colour sold out)
Livia Skirt
Fans of skirts should definitely go with this pattern, because Livia not only looks very feminine, you can also style this skirt in different ways. The elegance is of course in the pleats and the midi length, but also in the details. For example, Livia has side pockets with a flap in the side seam (which you could also leave out if you prefer), a straight waistband with button closure and a zip in the back.
Mind the Maker About A Dot Sienna Ecovero Viscose Twill
Fabric recommendations: Freedom of choice is what you get for Livia, as both a stiff and a supple fabric will do perfectly. However, the effect is completely different: a stiffer fabric like twill cotton or poplin will make it a statement piece. If you choose a supple fabric such as viscose (crepe), your skirt will flow wonderfully. Lyocell or a beautiful woollen fabric are also options.
Fibre Mood Dots and Dashes Green Ecovero Viscose
Maggie Jacket
Bleak autumn days? Maggie will pilot you through the showers and gusts of wind. This comfortable hooded jacket has a lining and a smart drawstring hem. Also, handy welt pockets, front zip and a cord in the hood.
A nice detail: the hem contains a piece of elastic which creates a playful gathered effect (and helps keeps the water out!).
Ex-Designer Deadstock Olive Tencel Cotton Twill
Fabric recommendations: The fabric chosen depends on the purpose of your jacket. If Maggie is meant to brave rain showers, go for nylon. A quilted fabric makes it an extra warm winter coat, and with canvas or twill cotton you have good options for a parka version of Maggie.
Meadow Flowers in Cream Soft Shell
Atelier Brunette Ivy Green Cotton Gabardine Fabric
Nova Top
This blouse features a mix of elegant details: delicate pleating at the neckline, a blind zip at the back and the two-piece raglan sleeves that run in an A- line shape towards the hem. Another reason to take on this sewing project: Nova has a particularly comfortable cut...
Atelier Brunette Java Rust Ecovero Viscose Crepe
Fabric recommendations: Nova can be made in a supple or a slightly stiffer fabric. Lyocell (or a mix), poplin, woven jacquard: all are great options with a different effect each time.
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Pink Combed Cotton
Pax Trousers
The cool cargo trousers are in just about every collection this autumn, so don't miss this one if you are a fan. Prefer no patch pockets? No problem, these can be easily left out. Pax goes for character and comfort and that includes ties at the hem and a waistband with elastic and cord. No high waist here, these trousers are intended to sit a bit lower.
Black Slub Linen with Tencel Fibres
Fabric recommendations: Of course, twill cotton is the obvious choice, but there are other options. If you have a Pax pant in mind that ties at the bottom and drapes nicely, choose a heavy crepe or satin. You will also get an completely different effect with a nylon fabric or faux leather. If you have comfort in mind, go with jumper fabric or french terry.
Ex-Designer Deadstock Olive Worsted Wool
Deadstock Pure Wool Crepe Fabric in Red
Risa Blouse
Every wardrobe needs some success numbers that you always score with, and Risa is one of them. Casual feminine on jeans, but also very easy to transform into a festive eye-catcher. This wrap blouse is simply stylish with its collar and lapels, drop shoulders and straight sleeves.
Garden of Dreams Midnight Blooms Sateen with Tencel Lyocell fibres
Fabric recommendations: This ultimate blouse calls for a smooth-flowing fabric. Choose a medium-weight and especially flowing fabric. Get an extra festive effect with a shiny or metallic fabric.
Mind the Maker Solid Lilac Ecovero Viscose Twill
Peach Touch Cupro Viscose Twill
Zinnia Top
A meeting at work, lunch with friends or festive season with the family: Zinnia effortlessly adapts to your plans. The choice of fabric also determines whether you make it a casual blouse or rather have a party in mind. The top has a round neckline and cropped, long sleeves with an elasticated sleeve hem. Fine detail: at the back you have a closure with a loop and a button.
Garden of Dreams Night Sky GOTS Organic Cotton Sateen
Fabric recommendations: Woven to knitted fabrics, supple to stiff fabrics: Zinnia leaves you completely free to choose. Do you like it understated? Then choose a supple fabric with little or no texture, such as viscose (crepe), lyocell, satin, chambray... Both solid colours and prints will give a beautiful effect. If you prefer something more dramatic, go for fine corduroy, denim, poplin, leather or seersucker. Do you like working with a light, supple fabric? Voile cotton, muslin, crepe or thin viscose create a fluid and less voluminous effect. Finally, with stiff fabrics like poplin, raw silk, nylon and organza, you go for a statement piece.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Deep Coral
For more information on each pattern in this issue, including fabric requirements you can visit the Fibre Mood website here.
If you require pattern tracing pattern and storage envelopes you can visit our haberdashery section for everything you need to trace your patterns from this magazine.
]]>TAUKO Magazine No. 9 is dedicated to the colour blue! The colour of the sky, seas and lakes has inspired a series of nine different sewing patterns by international designers. Serenity and tranquillity are very much in evidence in these designs, which include dresses, casual trousers, blouses and trench coats against the cold winter blasts. The size- and gender-inclusive designs also make great handmade gifts for loved ones! Artists and researchers talk about the importance of blue in the world of textiles in a variety of articles, providing plenty to read into the dark evenings.
Nordic T-Shirt
Lush in Sage Green Jersey Fabric with Tencel Lyocell Fibres
Mila Moisio, co-founder of TAUKO Magazine, created the NORDIC T-shirt pattern to enable you to craft one of the world’s most popular garments.
The NORDIC tee is a classic and timeless design with a straight cut that suits all body types and offers a slightly oversized fit. The pattern has three length variations that include a cropped top, a hip-covering tunic, and a midi-length dress version. It is the perfect beginner-friendly pattern that provides a canvas for you to experiment with different fabrics, colour blocking, and your own creative hacks.
Choose medium-weight knit and stretchy fabrics such as jerseys, sweater fabrics, wool knits, and Tencel knits.
Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey Dark Navy with Tencel Modal fibres
Sunday Trousers
Deadstock Cashmere Blend Wool Suiting in Elephant Grey
The SUNDAY trousers are a collaboration between TAUKO Magazine and the founder of the Terhen brand, Terhi Ruutu. The SUNDAY trousers feel like the warm touch of a sauna session. Their looseness gives the skin room to breathe and recover.
The cut suits all body types and the legs can easily be adjusted to your desired length. You can use this pattern as a basis to reinvent trouser-making and the simplicity of the design leaves plenty of room for your choice of fabric.
Choose light to medium-weight woven or knit fabrics. The trousers work with jerseys as well as knit merino wool, soft cotton and linen, or draping viscose and Tencel.
Flow Denim Blue Viscose Linen Blend Fabric
Sauna Robe
Deadstock Knitted Reversible Wool Coating Fabric
The SAUNA robe is designed for a neverending feeling of comfort and luxury. The hem and sleeves come in maxi and cropped lengths and are easy to adjust. The long belt pieces can be sewn in, or you can make a separate belt. All seams are finished with flatfelled and French seams for a neat look, but you can always adjust the process to suit your skills and needs. This pattern is beginnerfriendly, beautiful, and easy to make.
Choose medium to lightweight woven or knit fabrics. The robe works with jerseys as well as knit merino wool, soft cotton and linen, or draping viscose and Tencel. Bold print fabrics are also a great option for this simple design.
Mind the Maker Oda Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Green Khaki & Dry Mustard
Meander Bag
Cousette Bright Blue Soft Cotton Denim
With a background in architecture and lighting design, Emily Klug enjoys the challenge of designing zero-waste garments and accessories. With every design, Emily strives to create sewing patterns that not only reduce fabric waste and consumption but also present an exciting project for the maker.
MEANDER is a flexible bag that you can take with you on the go. It transforms to fit the needs of your adventure, big or small. The zero-waste design features a gathered bottom that can be cinched to create a smaller bag or expanded to full capacity. It has two size options, each with a different closure.
Select a medium-weight woven fabric (6–9 oz/200–305 gsm) with a bit of structure: cotton or nylon ripstop, cotton canvas, twill, or denim. If you are using heavy fabric for the main body of the bag, use a lightweight fabric for the lining.
Bold Foliage Cotton Linen Canvas
Cousette Soft Velvet Cotton in Black
Shoreline Top
Eucalyptus Leaves on Sage Green Canvas
Natascha Chambers is a sewist of 20 years and a creative branding specialist for small businesses. She is based in London.
The SHORELINE top was inspired by wintery beach walks and 1970s leisurewear. The boxy shape is softened by the curved, raised neckline, and the volume is balanced by braceletlength sleeves. You can finish the garment with a zipper or a placket closure and optionally add a patch pocket. The pocket belt was inspired by the beautiful and practical tie-on pockets used by women in the 19th century. It brings a touch of whimsy to the SHORELINE top.
This pattern is designed for medium or heavy-weight woven fabrics with good body and structure, such as denim, canvas, coated cotton, corduroy, wool, jacquard, or cloque. If your fabric has stretch, we recommend using a medium interfacing on all facing pieces.
Jet Dress
Ex-Designer Autumn Checks with Lurex
Jenny Hassler is a compulsive sewist based in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina, USA. The JET dress started as an idea for making a pair of large jeans into a dress. Jenny doesn’t often wear pants, and she loves a bold frock. She also loves the crisp, cool look of topstitching on denim.
The JET dress has box pleats in the front and gathers in the back. You can also opt for gathers in the front, as we did with the gingham sample dress. This design has two options for the sleeves: You can make gathered sleeves with lots of ease at the hem or sculptural petal sleeves. The neckline is wide and deep enough to allow you to slip on the dress without a zip. The dress features zipped welt pockets in front of the side seams on both sides.
JET works best in non-stretch, medium to heavy-weight denim or canvas. Stiff fabrics are great for this piece as they can hold its voluminous shape. For a lighter version, choose medium-weight linen or cotton.
Bohemian in Black Cotton Canvas
Quincy Dress
Washed Denim with TENCEL Lyocell Fibres in Light Blue
Robyn Andrea Burgess, fashion designer and founder of Styles InSeams, began sewing because she couldn’t find clothes that fit. At 6'2"/188 cm, she longed to feel comfortable and confident while navigating her life and career in New York City. Robyn creates cheerful styles that adapt to creative and professional adventures.
The QUINCY dress is designed to keep you looking effortlessly good all year round. It was inspired by 1940s silhouettes and named after Robyn’s grandmother’s hometown in New England. The timeless dress style features tucks to loosely define the waist, a revere collar, and short sleeves. You can cut the A-line skirt above the knee for a relaxed look, or choose a midi length that’s elegant day or night.
Choose a medium-weight, non-stretch woven fabric without much drape. Denim, cotton sateen, Ankara cotton, linen, wool crepe, jacquard, faux leather or suede, and dupioni silk all work well for this design.
Silver Grey Pure Linen Fabric
Rayleigh Coat
Deadstock Crystal Teal Herringbone Lamb’s Wool Coating Fabric
Elina Vuorema is a Helsinki-based sewist and textile design student. As a fan of functionalism, she wants to create usable and long-lasting textile products. At the same time, she is interested in pushing the boundaries of art, textiles, and clothing.
The RAYLEIGH coat is a slightly oversized garment for all genders and body types. It has raglan sleeves, a detachable belt, and a collar that can either be buttoned up for cold, windy days or folded down for a more formal look. Whether you need a winter coat in wool with a full lining or an unlined trench coat for the transitional season, this pattern has instructions for both!
For the winter coat version, we recommend a medium to heavy wool or wool blend for the outer fabric and a light to medium voile, cotton, silk, or viscose for the lining. Our range of Elegance Viscose Poplin is ideal for lining. For an unlined trench, use a medium to heavy woven fabric, such as cotton canvas, oilskin, or denim.
Deadstock Italian Wool Coating Fabric in Toffee with Cashmere
Italian Wool Coating Fabric in Fuchsia
Optimatium Shirt Dress
Yarn Dyed Blue Cotton Checked Fabric
Liz Haywood lives in Australia and is a former industry patternmaker who enjoys home sewing. She came across zero-waste pattern cutting while reading about sustainable fashion and was instantly hooked. Zero waste is a constant influence when Liz designs her patterns. She sees it as a delightful challenge that forces her to think about pattern making in a different way.
You can wear the zero-waste OPTIMATIUM design as a buttoned-up dress or open as a flowing dust coat. It has in-seam pockets, a scooped hemline, gently pleated cuffs, and a high neckline. You can change the length of the dress and the sleeves without affecting the design’s zero-waste status, and you can add bust darts if you wish.
Use linen, cotton, chambray, quilting cotton, Liberty Tana Lawn, viscose, lightweight wool, or suiting. This design is not suitable for napped fabrics and directional prints. Stripes and checks work, but they must be balanced/even stripes and checks, and may require slightly more fabric to match at the seams.
Watercolour Spring Flowers Viscose
For fabric requirements and details of the fabrics used in the samples please see the Tauko website.
]]>This season our Autumn/Winter trends blog is looking a little different this year. As we mentioned in previous seasons, designers are starting to turn away from ‘fad’ fast fashion trends that come and go before we know it and are focusing on timeless pieces that will build a wardrobe we can cherish for a lifetime.
As sewist’s this is something we can definitely get behind. Many of us sew because we can’t find exactly what we want in ready to wear, and we treasure the pieces we make. We create garments that reflect who we are.
If you want to know what garments appeared on the runways over and over again, you can take a look back at our Autumn Trends blog for 2022. The same garments were showing up this year and are testament to this new way of thinking in the fashion industry.
However, while the styles remained the same, we saw new colour combinations popping up and this was something we got very excited by! We love colour at Lamazi, and can’t resist there new colour palettes. You might find a lot of these colours already in your wardrobe, and we hope this will inspire you to combine these items in new ways.
Teal and Yellow
The softest shades of yellow might seem like more of a spring/summer colour, but paired with teal this automatically becomes a more autumnal combination. Think drapey skirts and dresses in shades of teal paired with soft yellow cardigans and jumpers, bringing sunshine on the greyest of autumn days.
From left: Groovy Flowers on Yellow Viscose Fabric, Essential Chic Cotton Jersey in Dark Teal, Soft Yellow Pure Irish Linen, Floral Eve Teal Rayon Viscose Fabric
From left: Painterly Joy Viscose Poplin Fabric, Stretch Cotton Needlecord in Teal, Stripe Yellow Cotton Linen Fabric, Bold Brushstrokes with LENZING Ecovero Fibres.
Olive and Rust
These colours on their own are both classic when it comes to autumn dressing but are rarely paired together. The rich shades of rust were paired with a more neutral olive shade on the catwalks, to provide a sophisticated Autumnal look.
From left: Watercolour Splash in Rust Viscose Poplin, Mind the Maker Olive Green Nisa Softened Linen, Zebra in Rust Cotton Jersey Fabric, Breeze Olive Enzyme Washed Linen
From left: Deadstock Rust Leaves Viscose, Ex-Designer Deadstock Olive Cotton Tencel Twill fabric, Atelier Brunette Gingham Rust Off-White Cotton Double Gauze, Allure Olive Soft Single Jersey Fabric.
Blush and Burgundy
Red and Pink has been a big trend in recent years and one we have been excited to embrace. This season this combination is taking a more grown up, elegant approach, with soft shades of blush pink being paired with deep, rich burgundy.
From left: Daisies Blush Viscose/Rayon Fabric, Brush Petals Wine Viscose Fabric, Lilies on Burgundy Cotton Jersey, Eglantine and Zoe Streli in Nude Viscose Poplin
From left: Yarn Dyed Burgundy Checked Viscose, Fibre Mood Floral Outline on Pink Double Gauze, Botany on Burgundy Stretch Viscose Poplin, Atelier Brunette Vera Blush Kelsey Viscose.
Emerald Green and Brown
Vibrant Emerald Green has seen a big rise in popularity this year, with this joyful colour appearing over and over again in both fabrics and the ready to wear fashion industry. To carry this colour into the autumn and winter months, we recommend pairing it with rich browns.
From left: Ex-Designer Deadstock Chocolate Stretch Cotton Tencel, Abstract Waves Green Viscose Poplin Fabric, Geo Shapes on Brown Viscose, Mind the Maker Plain Jolly Green Ecovero Leia Viscose Crepe
From left: Deadstock Knitted Reversible Wool Coating Fabric, Summer Party Gemstones GOTS Organic Cotton Sateen, Deadstock Italian Wool Coating Fabric with Cashmere in Toffee, Emerald Green Speckles Viscose Poplin.
Do you have a favourite Autumn or Winter colour combination? We hope these fresh combinations will inspire you to try new outfits to bring you joy.
]]>I don’t know about you but I can’t bare to waste fabric, for two reasons really - Firstly because often I love the design so much I want to make the most of every little morsel, but secondly because I really try to be environmentally conscious in my practices and I hate the idea of my waste going to landfill. This does however mean that I end up with a huge scrap and remnant pile that eventually needs ideas to use up before it takes up my entire house! Another reason I have been on the hunt for remnant inspiration is because I often see beautiful fabrics in the remnants section but I’m often not quite sure what I could do with the smaller bits of fabric. I figured I can’t be the only one looking for inspiration, so today’s post is all about sharing what I have found.
Woven Inspo
First off let’s chat about ideas for those very small woven fabric scraps. I think quite an obvious go-to idea is patchwork.
There are lots of patchwork projects out there, if you are looking for something simple then I think squares are always a good place to start. I have previously used square scraps to create a Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket which I then went on to quilt. I sewed the squares together first and then treated them as one piece of fabric. I layered the patchwork over a layer of quilt batting and a cotton lining fabric, next I quilted the layers together by topstitching either side of where the squares were joined. Lastly I sewed the jacket together as I normally would and bound the edges with bias binding.
To create something similar you could also use the Hovea jacket from Megan Neilson which comes with great instructions for quilting a jacket. I have also seen versions of the Friday Pattern company Ilford jacket made into a patchwork quilted jacket. I think the boxy fit and simple construction of the Ilford lends itself well to becoming a quilted jacket.
Inspiration images from Pinterest
If you are looking for something a bit more adventurous you can use different shapes, there are lots of great free quilting pattern designs you could use on the internet. You just need to make the design up big enough so that you can cut out your pattern pieces, then treat the patchwork piece of fabric as though it is one piece of fabric.
If you don’t fancy a full quilted jacket then vests are a great project, you could use one quilt block as the center back of your vest and then sew fabric around it to get enough to cut out the full back piece and make a feature, this is something I have done a few times now. You could also add panels of patch work to over garments.
You could also use a patchwork panel to turn the front bodice of the Style Arc Hope Dress or the Lacey Dress into a statement feature.
There are lots of other things you can make from patchwork if you don’t fancy a garment, such as a tote bag, or a quilt, a foot pouffe, the possibilities really are quite endless!
Another great use for the smaller scraps is jazzing up another garment. You could add a feature pocket to a shirt, trousers or dungarees in either a printed fabric or a contrasting colour to the main fabric.
Let’s move on to some of the medium size scraps to remnants. There are lots of small projects which you could make. The Pisa Bow bag by Kate Eva is one that is on my list of things I would like to try. There are lots of bag patterns around that use up smaller amounts of fabric, you could make something to match your main garment, or just add some colour or pattern to your outfit with a statement accessory.
Other accessories which are great to make are scrunchies, I have made quite a few of these now and they are always handy for those with long hair, they use up just a strip of fabric and a bit of elastic - there are lots of tutorials on youtube for this. I have also made other hair accessories like headbands and bows - again, lots of inspiration and tutorials on both youtube and pinterest for these things.
Now, this is perhaps not everyone's idea of fun, but I really enjoy making bias binding from my leftovers. I absolutely love a funky bias binding to add to projects and I find the process of making it rather therapeutic. You will also be surprised by how much you can make from smaller remnants. I tend to go through a phase of making lots to build up my stash so it is ready for any upcoming projects. You can then use the binding for quilts, quilted garments, finishing off seams, and also to make your own piping for embellishing.
Here is an example of where I have used a contrast bias binding to add detail around a collar, pocket and along the seam of a Raglan sleeve.
Colour blocking is a great way of using bigger remnants and is a long lasting fashion trend. There is so much inspiration for all different sorts of garments and you can have a lot of fun playing around with the placement of different colours and patterns.
Shirts are a great example you can pick a different fabric for each element to really show off those details. Tiered skirts are another good simple way to play with prints. You could split a garment in half with a complete 50/50 design, or what about even going into quarters to make a sort of checkerboard design. I have done this before with a Homer and Howels Ingrid dress, I have the same print but in two different colour ways and then alternated it between the quarters of the dress to create a misaligned checkerboard.
Wardrobe By Me Jensen Shirt, Closet Core Patterns Kalle Shirt, Style Arc Nova Midi Dress, Paper Theory Block Tee, all other images from Pinterest.
If you have a little one in your life then remnants are often the perfect size for children’s clothes, I have made many garments for my children from either my own remnants and remnants that I have purchased. You could make some very cute matching outfits with the patterns below.
Clockwise from top left: Tilly and the Buttons Marnie, Ikatee Stella Duo Blouse and Dress, Green Bee Frances Dress, Wardrobe by Me Jensen shirt.
Let’s move on to inspiration for jersey fabrics. One of my go-to projects for the really small remnants is face wipes. I made lots of these when my kids were small and used them as an eco-friendly alternative to wet wipes. I would cut out a shape in jersey and then layer that with either a piece of muslin cloth, towel or another layer of jersey and overlock the two pieces together around the edges. If you don’t have an overlocker you could layer the two fabrics right side together, stitch around the edge leaving a small gap to turn right side out. Turn right side out and then close up the hole.
Again, similar to the woven fabrics, headbands and scrunchies are great and even softer on the hair than woven fabrics. I have made headbands for myself, my daughter and also as gifts many times, using this great quick tutorial from Your Home Based Mom.
Again, like with woven fabrics, jerseys can also be colour blocked. The Tilly and The Buttons Billie sweater gives a great example of colour blocking.
From top left: Dhurata Davies Maxine Dress, Thread Theory Carmanah Sweater, Thread Theory Woodley Tee, Tilly and the Buttons Billie Sweater.
There are also some patterns that use a metre to a metre and a half in fabric (depending on your size) which are great for the larger remnants. I wrote a t-shirt blog comparing different t-shirt patterns, a lot of those I made using under 1.5 Metres and on that blog you can find a chart with the fabric amounts for different patterns.
Underwear and swimwear are another good pattern choice for using up smaller remnants of jersey and swimwear/activewear fabrics.
Lise Tailor Hello Sunshine Bikini
Tilly and the Buttons Iris Knickers
I hope that has brought you lots of ideas for using up all those scraps, and some inspiration for delving into the remnants section.
Head to Vicki Reid’s Instagram @whatvickimade to see more of her beautiful makes. We are constantly adding new remnants to our sale section here.
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The latest issue of Fibre Mood could not have come at a better time as we are bursting with ideas and plans for our Autumn Wardrobe! With 14 brand new patterns you are sure to find that perfect piece that is missing from your autumn wardrobe.
Read on for all the details of each pattern, including fabric suggestions and our top fabric picks.
Dunya Jacket
Loose-fitting and wonderfully casual: Dunya goes for oversized and is therefore the perfect jacket to wear over your sporty, but also casual-chic look. The large, rounded side slits give the jacket extra comfort. Dunya is also lined and therefore the perfect layer to stay cosy during your autumn walks. The relaxed look is also in the details: the patch pockets, the 1-piece collar and the sleeves with cuffs that can easily be turned up.
Tip: not a fan of oversized? Then just make the jacket 1-2 sizes smaller.
Italian Wool Coating Fabric in Fuchsia Pink
Fabric Suggestions: A beautiful padded fabric is a dream match, but boiled wool, bouclé and flannel are also ideal options for Dunya.
Nutmeg Mammoth Junior Cotton Flannel
Cosy Quilted Coating Fabric in Navy
Ezra Top
The all-time favourite in your closet: an elegant top upgrades denims (for that “nice top and jeans” look) and always pairs beautifully with fancy bottoms for a more dressy look. This loose model stands out thanks to the playful pleats that create nice volume on the shoulders. The bias tape around the neckline and keyhole opening in the center back seam complete Eza. Elegance and comfort are also found in the sleeves pleated into cuffs to add more volume.
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Combed Cotton in Pink
Fabric Suggestions: With Eza you can choose both supple and lighter fabrics or stiffer and heavier fabrics. Into drama? Then experiment, for example, with fine corduroy, denim, poplin, leather or seersucker. If you like it a little more subtle, choose fluid fabrics with little or no texture such as viscose (crepe), lyocell, satin, chambray... Both solid and print are perfect, but especially a stripe pattern provides a very refreshing effect.
Fibre Mood Watercolour Brushstrokes Cotton Poplin
Lulu Blouse
All eyes on... the voluminous sleeves with deep cuffs! Flowing, playful and the eye-catcher of this blouse. Gathers at the sleeve head and pleats at the hem create the wow effect. This blouse with V-neck cut and gathers at the shoulder line does not have an oversized cut, so all the attention goes to the sleeves. By the way, also note the button placket ... choose beautiful buttons for a detail that makes the blouse extra graceful.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Deep Coral
Fabric Suggestions: Such beautiful statement sleeves naturally call for a somewhat stiffer fabric such as poplin, raw silk, nylon, organza... If you prefer to work with a lighter-weight fabric, choose for example voile cotton, muslin, seersucker, crepon or thin viscose. This will make Lulu more fluid and less bulky.
Cousette Desert Primrose Cotton Crepe
Marah Skirt
Two autumn trends in one sewing project: after the cargo trousers, this season there is also the cargo skirt for a cool silhouette. Plus the denim skirt is popping up everywhere.
But of course, Marah keeps all options open: denim is definitely not a must and you can tune the length according to your preference. For example a maxi skirt with a long slit in the centre back or a cool mini skirt.
And the pockets? You decide that too… go for the maximum number - pockets with flaps on the side seam, back pockets, curved front pockets - or just leave them out. In short. this skirt with a shaped waistband, belt loops and zip closure is an autumn challenge not to be missed.
Stretch Cotton Needlecord in Teal
Fabric Suggestions: Denim is an absolute top choice but other sturdier fabrics such as cotton twill, (fine) corduroy, faux leather or nylon will also work. Another tip: with a woven jacquard you get a very surprising effect, either a solid colour or with a cool print? Marah is super flexible!
9oz Recycled Cotton Stretch Denim in Indigo
Naima Trousers
Double pleated trousers are a keeper: elegant thanks to the pleats that start from the waistband and also wonderfully comfortable thanks to the mobility they create. Naima is a loose model with a low crotch, focusing on a relaxed fit. We opted for a 7/8 length, but you can of course adjust it to your taste.
More details: the trousers have a shaped waistband and a piece of elastic in the back for flexibility. Furthermore, we also have a fly closure with zip and front slash pockets.
Stretch Cotton Needlecord in Burnt Orange
Fabric Suggestions: So many options, from cotton to wool and from a neutral hue to an exuberant print. To help with any choice stress, here is some guidance: Naima is at her best in a stiffer fabric, think denim, cotton twill, (fine) corduroy, poplin, gabardine, leather.
Eucalyptus Leaves on Sage Green Cotton Canvas
Roya Dress and Top
Simply beautiful: this free-fitting basic dress exudes class in a casual way, making it a dream basic in your wardrobe. For the sleeves, you can choose between two options: a long, narrow sleeve with gathers at the sleeve head or a shorter sleeve that flares towards the hem. Finally, the round neck with neck band gives the dress a stylish, classic look.
Rainbow Stripe in Pink Cotton Jersey
Fabric Suggestions: To make your dream dress, start with a jersey made of cotton, viscose, wool, lyocell, bamboo, for example... Make sure the knitted fabric is not too thin or it will cling to the body. Tip: a nice rib knit with sufficient weight is a perfect match.
Cosy Cotton Ribbed Jersey in Ochre
Soraya Sweater
We have a favourite jumper every autumn and this one already stands a good chance of ending up at the top of your list: Soraya is an oversized model with a neckband to snuggle up in. The sleeves are simplicity itself: straight and long. The length is up to you: a little longer at the hips or playfully cropped. The surprising thing about this jumper are the ribbons, allowing you to play with a ruched effect. Not such a fan? You can of course leave them out and opt for a streamlined style.
Snug Viscose Blend Sweater Knit
Fabric suggestions: Rib jersey, French terry, scuba, interlock, knitted jacquard, velvet...there are different options for Soraya, so long as it is a knit fabric and a bit stretchy!
Cosy Colours Grass Green with Multi Flecks Sweatshirting
Thara Trousers
Wide, floor-length trousers are a definite must in your autumn wardrobe. Dressy and über-feminine, but at the same time you can also style these trousers for a sporty vibe. Thara adds extra playfulness with the side slits. You can optionally add side slits in a colour combination of your choice (you can read more about this in the instructions.)
Other details: the waist is finished with a facing, there is a concealed zipper in the side seam and the front has a decorative pintuck.
Mind the Maker Plain Indigo Night ECOVERO Viscose Leia Crepe
Fabric Suggestions: Make Thara in a fabric with enough weight for it to drape nicely, but not too stiff. Our favourite? A heavy crepe fabric.
Mind the Maker Plain Jolly Green ECOVERO Viscose Leia Crepe
Ulima Top
Hello Indian Summer: this cropped blouse with cropped sleeves has a lovely relaxed vibe and is perfect for late summer days. Party planned during autumn? Ulima will instantly have you in party mood with the cropped length. deep V neck. faux button fastening and elastic at the hem.
Bold Brushstrokes Viscose Pink with LENZING Ecovero fibres
Fabric Suggestions: Ulima falls for supple fabrics such as viscose (crepe). silk. lyocell. seersucker. crepon. chambray. double gauze... A completely different. but equally beautiful effect is achieved with somewhat stiffer fabrics such as stonewashed poplin.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Yellow
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Royal Blue
Vinny Jacket
The mid-season jacket with extra punch: the bomber jacket is the toughest option anyway. Vinny also goes for typical bomber jacket features such as the elasticated hem & sleeves and style of collar, whilst the pleated sleeves and the patch pocket on the left sleeve give it that something extra. And of course this practical jacket has pockets, in this case welt pockets with flap, although you can also leave this out if you feel like more straightforward sewing.
Meadow Flowers in Black Soft Shell Fabric
Fabric Suggestions: There are many fabrics that lend themselves to making a bomber jacket. From a woven woollen coat fabric to a knitted woollen (jacquard) jersey. but also jumper fabric, ponte roma, scuba or neoprene: all beautiful options that give the bomber jacket extra character. Satin. embroidered fabrics. woven jacquard. imitation leather and felt create a completely different effect. but are just as beautiful.
Cousette Winter Shade Jacquard in Charcoal
Yushu Top and Dress
A T-shirt or a dress, you decide, but with Yushu you get a simple basic. Stylish without a ton of major design features, because this style is straightforward. And yet there is a surprising extra: the pleats on the shoulders and the shoulder pads give your T-shirt or dress that extra touch.
Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey in Purple Night
Fabric suggestions: This pattern is one for fans of knits. Plenty of choice, as tricot made of cotton, viscose, wool, lyocell, bamboo or mixture of these are all options!
Mind the Maker Odd Puzzle in Old Rose Saja Viscose Jersey
Zahia Dress
This short dress is the perfect mix between playful and office-proof. A fitted waist and elegant flow around the upper body contrasts nicely with the mini skirt and long sleeves. Many extras make it a strong overall silhouette, such as the faux chest pockets, the elegant collar, the button fastening in the front and the gathered sleeve finished with sleeve binding and cuffs. Finally, the pockets, waistband with elastic in the back and fly closure with zip in the skirt also make it a practical must-have.
Stretch Cotton Needlecord in Rose
Fabric suggestions: Zahia requires a fabric with a firmer touch, so denim, cotton twill, (fine) corduroy or suede, among others, are great choices. Or go with imitation leather for an eye-catching garment.
9oz Recycled Cotton Stretch Denim in Blue
For more details on each pattern, including fabric requirements visit the Fibre Mood website.
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Zero Waste Sewing has seen an increasing rise in popularity, with more and more focus put on sustainability in the fashion industry and in turn home sewing. But is it for everyone?
The reality is, Zero Waste patterns will always have a certain aesthetic- boxy, and oversized. While this style suits some, I would say the majority of sewists will never try this style of pattern as it just does not suit them.
Typically, clothing patterns are produced from a sketch that is sent to a pattern cutter to be made into a pattern and graded. Most of the time the designer has not considered the pattern pieces as part of their design, just the finished garment. They do not think of the design and pattern drafting process as one. While Indie Pattern designers are the an exception to this, as most companies are a one person operation who will design and draft the pattern, the finished garment is still based on a design on concept.
Zero Waste Patterns are very different to this, in that the pattern is decided by the piece of fabric that the garment will be made into. The features of the design will appear naturally as the pattern is drawn onto the fabric. It is a jigsaw puzzle placed onto the fabric, with designing and pattern drafting happening alongside each other.
Zero Waste Patterns by Birgitta Helmerson
Zero Waste Sewing in Practice
I have recently made The Shirt from the new “Zero Waste Patterns” Book by Birgitta Helmersson. As someone who likes the ‘jigsaw’ technical side of sewing and pattern drafting, I find it very satisfying to see these shapes and measurements drawn onto fabric, and later becoming a finished garment.
This book possibly contains the most advanced zero waste patterns on the market to date. Birgitta Helmersson not only produces sewing patterns but creates a line of garments available to buy from her store and website. The variety of garments she has created using the zero waste technique is vast, including coats, jackets, trousers and jumpsuits alongside the typical skirts, tops and dresses.
I have to admit this is one book I would be happy to buy and just look at. It is very aesthetically pleasing and clearly written. While browsing through it the shirt pattern stood out. It has a collar, back pleat and interesting back facing design, and only uses 90cm of fabric! That’s right… 90cm! I was shocked and very much
I had a Mind the Maker Organic Cotton Oxford Stripes in Lilac and Plum and was planning to make a boxy shirt and shorts set, so decided this was the perfect opportunity to try this pattern out. The book gives different size options, depending on the width of your fabric, which is not always the case with zero waste patterns. This does bring up the issue that if you trim your fabric down to get a smaller size you are technically wasting fabric, but if you have a garment that is in the end more wearable for you then that is what is most important.
I love the finished result and will be trying a few more patterns from this book in the future, when it suits the style of garment I am looking for. I feel that fabric choice plays a big factor in how these garments look. A stiffer fabric like the cotton I used will create this boxy shape, while a viscose or cotton lawn would look completely different.
The Alternatives to Zero Waste Patterns
In contrast to this, I have recently cut a pair of Vivian Shao Chen Bisque Trousers, a pattern I know from experience is hungry on fabric and produces a considerable amount of waste. To make this more sustainable, I had a top pattern pulled out as well to cut from the leftover fabrics as I was going, doing both at the same time to ensure they would fit and there was minimal waste. I had earmarked the Fibre Mood Uzma Top from issue 23 for exactly this scenario, most sizes use less than 1m of fabric and this could be reduced further by using a contrast fabric for the facings. Yes, I did have some leftover fabric, but the pieces were barely big enough to make a scrunchie with.
If Zero Waste Patterns are not your style, this is a great alternative to minimising your waste as you are sewing. There are lots of other projects that can be used for minimising your waste while sewing.
Choosing to sew with sustainably made fabrics is another option. The textile industry has many certifications now to ensure the production of these fabrics is sustainable from start to finish. Look out for ‘GOTS Organic’ or LENZING certified Ecovero Viscose or Tencel fabrics. You can find our selection of sustainable fabrics here.
Are Zero Waste Patterns the answer to sustainable sewing?
This is not an easy question to answer. For some yes, and others no. I believe the key to sewing sustainably (or indeed shopping sustainably in general) is to buy and make things you know you will love and wear forever, without getting sucked into the current fads and trends. To get to know your style a little better you can check out our blog “Colour and You” which looks at how different colours suits different personalities, which results in a wardrobe you will love and wear forever. This is the key to sustainable sewing.
For me personally, I do like the style of garment that zero waste patterns produce, ad as evidenced by the book Zero Waste Patterns designers are coming up with more and more clever ways of creating a variety of garments using the Zero Waste method. I would never exclusively sew with only zero waste patterns, but I will keep them in mind, especially if I see a remnant I like that is 90cm long! (You can shop our remnants here to see if anything catches your eye!)
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The latest Special Issue of Fibre Mood has launched today and it is special indeed! With 19 new patters in this issue, including 7 patterns for kids and 4 summer accessories, this issue has your summer wardrobe sorted!
Augusta Dress
Fibre Mood Monochrome Grid Viscose with Tencel Lyocell fibres
This will no doubt become your favourite summer dress: a lovely, loose fit with a touch of class, for a city trip and on the way to the beach and everything in between. Augusta is oversized and falls to knee length, but you can make the dress any length you like. Augusta is also perfect as a blouse! This shirt dress looks elegant thanks to its rolled short sleeves, collar with collar band, concealed button fastening and side seam pockets. The gathers in front and back make it a graceful cut, perfect for that summer breeze.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Purple
Fabric suggestions: Chambray, linen, poplin, voile cotton, crepon, crepe, supple twill, double gauze, seersucker, washed silk, etc. In short, a range of choices for this summer dress. If you want extra mobility in your dress, choose a supple fabric. Does a statement piece make your heart beat faster? You’ll get a brilliant look with a stiffer fabric.
Holiday tip: go for a sheer fabric for a pool or beach cover up!
Terrazzo White Linen Viscose Blend Fabric
Blossom Dress
Fibre Mood Floral Outline on White Ecovero Viscose
A sunset, a cosy conversation, a barefoot walk on the beach: this romantic, oversized dress suits all your plans perfectly. The deep V-décolleté with a bow gives Blossom a seductive edge, and the ruffled skirt creates a nice, breezy effect. You determine the length. Bonus: the gathers at the top and the elasticated casing at the bottom create a nice flounce effect and allow you to elegantly roll up the sleeves.
Fabric Suggestions: This dress calls for an elegant fabric like double gauze, linen, voile cotton, poplin, seersucker, chambray, etc.
Melange Burgundy Cotton Double Gauze
Coral Dress
Fibre Mood Floral Outline on Pink Cotton Double Gauze
Thirty degrees and higher in the forecast? With its shoulder straps, open back, and airy cut, Coral is perfectly heat wave-proof. The ties on the back make for an original eye-catcher, but can also be omitted. Your shoulder straps will just have a little less ‘hold’ in that case. The gathers along the neckline enhance the flowing effect, while the side seam pockets are a practical addition. Coral is a long summer dress, but can, of course, be shortened.
Fabric Suggestions: Avoid overly thick fabrics for this long dress: Coral falls for thinner, summery fabrics such as voile cotton, linen, double gauze, chambray, seersucker, crepe and crepon, satin, and washed silk.
White Textured Cotton Check Fabric
Dahlia Shorts
Cousette Veverine Cotton Gabardine Fabric
A must in your holiday suitcase: Dahlia, with its high, pleated waistline, is the definition of elegant shorts. The legs are wide with a cuff, mixing comfort with style. Furthermore, the side pockets, buttoned waistband, and zip fly closure complete these shorts.
Breeze Light Blue Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
Fabric Suggestions: To do justice to the model, choose fabrics such as twill, poplin, denim, linen, or woven jacquard.
Peonies Natural Cotton Linen Jacquard
Dune Top
Flow Orange Viscose Linen Blend Fabric
The perfect top for a holiday on la isla bonita! This off-shoulder model looks extra elegant and is just brimming with holiday vibes. You could add elastic at the hem, but if you choose not to, you’ll have a nice, loose top. Do you prefer to turn it into a dress? Go for it!
Fabric Suggestions: Dune is undoubtedly most beautiful in flowing, lighter weight fabrics such as crepe, muslin or chambray.
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Apricot
Lucca
Lush in Sage Green Jersey Fabric with Tencel Fibres
The swimsuit as an eye-catcher. This isn’t just a holiday must
for swimming; this off-shoulder, ultra-feminine swimsuit with asymmetric neckline-arm cut is also great for strolling around. The flounce gives Lucca a tropical touch, but can also be left out for a minimal look. Finish the edges with swimsuit elastic.
Fabric Suggestions: For a swimsuit, you need a stretchy swimsuit fabric. We used a blend of recycled polyester and elastane. Would you rather wear Lucca as a body paired with a long skirt, trousers, or shorts perhaps? Then choose bi-stretch jersey.
Nikka Dress
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Deep Coral
Nikka’s all about those summery layers. This sleeveless maxi dress drapes playfully and airily thanks to the gathering. The neckline is rounded and quite closed for some contrast. Original touch: the deep V-arm armholes overlap to give an interesting shape. Furthermore, the bust darts, side seam pockets and a blind zip fastening at the back make the dress absolutely perfect.
Fabric Suggestions: From fabrics with a supple drape to semi-rigid fabrics, Nikka is flexible when it comes to fabric choice. Wovens such as seersucker, poplin, linen, supple twill, double gauze, chambray, etc. are very good choices.
Stripe Light Blue Cotton Linen Fabric
Ocean Top
Fibre Mood Monochrome Grid Viscose with Tencel Lyocell fibres
Sleeveless beauty: this oversized top mixes a simple, round neckline at the front with a playful V-neckline with button fastening at the back. There are subtle pleats in the front, making the top drape nicely. More details? Ocean does not opt for a classic shoulder seam, but instead lets the shoulder piece run slightly down the back. This sleeveless top is long, but of course you choose the ideal length yourself.
Fabric Suggestions: To do full justice to the subtle pleats in the front, go for a flowing fabric such as crepe, crepon, satin or seersucker.
Embroidered Flowers Emerald Cotton Double Gauze
Children’s Patterns
Daisy Top and Dress
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Grass Green Combed Cotton
A wow sleeve with impact! Daisy has lots of character thanks to the voluminous raglan sleeves with a puffed effect. Mini, midi, maxi... you choose. The oversized A-line dress remains otherwise simple, but does play with gathers and pleats around the neckline, adding extra flair. And, of course, this model also has handy pockets in the side seam.
Fabric Suggestions: Daisy is at her best with a summery fabric like poplin, batiste or chambray. If you prefer a romantic touch, opt for a print with small flowers or a vichy check à la Brigitte Bardot. If you’re all about pure, minimalist looks, opt for a soft earth or pastel shade.
Kira Shirt
Fibre Mood Watercolour Brushstrokes Cotton Poplin
Kira is cute! This short, button-up blouse is oversized and therefore nice and summery. The gathers on the back also give the pattern a relaxed vibe. Is oversized not really your thing? Then just make it a size (or two) smaller. In that case, it is important to carefully check the table of measurements to ensure that there is enough freedom of movement in your blouse. More fun details? A collar and cuffed short sleeves.
Fabric Suggestions: If you use a fabric with a supple drape, Kira will ‘fall’ nicely and look less bulky. If a statement look is more your thing, go for a fabric that is a bit stiffer and has more body. Our favourite fabrics for this project are poplin, chambray, lyocell, double gauze, organza, seersucker and linen. Choose a solid fabric or make it extra summery with a print such as polka dots, flowers, stripes or checks.
Sweet Small Flowers in Peach Cotton Double Gauze
Marisol Top
Melange Rose Cotton Double Gauze
Summer’s here and now you fancy a fast and easy project? You’ll be sewing this cropped top like a pro in no time! The Marisol’s round neckline gets that extra touch by finishing with bias tape. The three-quarter sleeves are finished with elastic. Do you prefer flowing sleeves? Then leave the elastic out. The hem of the top is also finished with elastic. (There is an adults version in Issue 20 of Fibre Mood.)
Fabric Suggestions: You can really go with whatever you like for Marisol. How about a woven or knitted fabric, such as chambray, lyocell, linen, double gauze, interlock or French terry? Want your top to drape smoothly? Crepe or woven viscose reduces the volume. If you just love texture and volume, poplin will give you a great effect.
Parker Shorts
9oz Recycled Stretch Denim in Blue
Running wild, skating, or playing for hours is a must in these knee-length cargo shorts. A cool sewing project for you and the elasticated waistband and the patch pockets on the back will no doubt make for a new favourite in your child’s wardrobe. And the faux fly? That’s there for aesthetics!
Fabric Suggestions: Parker looks best sturdy and so you might choose denim, for example, but poplin or linen also suit this model nicely.
Breeze Cream Tan Enzyme Washed Linen
Pearl Jumpsuit
Stripe Blue Linen Cotton Fabric
This nice, loose, oversized jumpsuit with wide shoulder straps is 100% summer and 100% suitable for play. Essential for all those treasures on the go: two side seam pockets!
Fabric Suggestions: Here the type of fabric determines the look of the garment, fabrics with a supple drape will work as will stiffer fabrics. Use some poplin, chambray, lyocell, double gauze, organza, seersucker or linen, for example.
Rae Top
Mind the Maker Flowery Jolly Green ECOVERO Leia Viscose Crepe
Easy does it, especially during the summer months when your diary is full of sunny plans. This oversized, unisex shirt with a rounded neckline will have you ready in no time. Handy extra: there is an invisible button fastening on the shoulder seam. And the length? You can adapt this to your preference, naturally.
Fabric Suggestions: Depending on the fabric chosen, this piece will have a different look. For Rae, choose a woven or a knitted fabric such as interlock, single or double jersey, French terry, poplin, voile cotton, chambray, double gauze, linen, etc.
Sunny Dress
Dashes Terracotta Cotton Double Gauze
Sunny + funny: this model has an extra sunny look with its ruffled, short sleeves. Perfect as a playful summer dress or easily shortened to create an elegant top. Beautiful details? The deep armhole with insert, the button fastening at the centre back seam, and the round neckline finished with bias tape. The pockets in the side seam are also wonderfully practical.
Fabric Suggestions: The possibilities are practically endless: poplin, chambray, lyocell, double gauze, crepe, satin, embroidery, lace, jacquard, seersucker, etc. Even a knitted fabric results in a very nice look. We’re curious to see what you fall for!
Tip: if you want to turn the sleeves into statement sleeves, go for a stiff fabric.
Accessories Patterns
Giti Phone Case
See You At Six Villagers Slightly Beige Cotton Canvas Gabardine Twill
Mehri Bag
Sealife on Natural Cotton Canvas
Minu Cap
See You At Six Pattern Stripes Cotton Canvas Gabardine Twill
Nousha Bag
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We have previously looked at how certain colours appeal to different personalities more than others, and choosing the right colour can affect your mood in our blog “Colour and You”. We have looked at how each colour can have a different affect on how we feel, now we are going to look at which tones fit with each personality type and how you can dress to feel like the best version of yourself. The best colours to get that ‘glow’.
The chances are you will look at a colour palette and instantly be drawn to it as it is in harmony with your personality. If not, there are various quizzes you can take online or in “The Little Book of Colour” by Karen Haller. Many people have more than one personality type, with one being more dominant.
While each colour palette refers to a particular season, within each palette you will find three different ‘sub-palettes’ that will work throughout the year. Within the Winter colour palette you will find many colours from the “Bright Winter” palette that appear in many vibrant summer prints.
Speckles Viscose Poplin in Cobalt, Fuchsia and Emerald Green
The Minimalist Personality
The key traits of the Winter or Minimalist personality are confidence, sophistication and a commanding presence. At home you will prefer clean lines and clear surfaces. The Minimalist personality will be efficient and focused, clear and concise.
The Winter Colours
The Winter colour palette is the only one to include white and black. Like Summer, these colours are blue based and are bold and dramatic. They are intense or very icy- just like a minimal winter landscape. Colours like pillar-box red, ice blue, royal purple, shocking pink and lemon yellow feature in this colour palette.
Watercolour Paisley Black Viscose Jersey
Cousette Desert Shapes on Charcoal ECOVERO Viscose
If the Winter colour palette is not for you, have a look at our other seasonal colour blogs- Spring, Summer and Autumn.
]]>We have previously looked at how certain colours appeal to different personalities more than others, and choosing the right colour can affect your mood in our blog “Colour and You”. We have looked at how each colour can have a different affect on how we feel, now we are going to look at which tones fit with each personality type and how you can dress to feel like the best version of yourself based on this theory. The best colours to get that ‘glow’.
The chances are you will look at a colour palette and instantly be drawn to it as it is in harmony with your personality. If not, there are various quizzes you can take online or in “The Little Book of Colour” by Karen Haller. Many people have more than one personality type, with one being more dominant.
While each colour palette refers to a particular season, within each palette you will find three different ‘sub-palettes’ that will work throughout the year. Dark autumn is the typical colour palette you will see through the autumn months, however the softer shades of Soft Autumn and brighter shades of True Autumn are ideal for the spring and summer seasons.
Summer Party Rainbow Leaves Organic Cotton Sateen
The Earthy Personality
The Earthy personality is warm and caring, with an enquiring mind and a desire to understand. You will feel happiest when you are in nature, whether it is pottering in the garden or walking in the woods.
Zig-Zag Viscose in Khaki, Deep Purple and Sienna
The Autumn Colours
The Autumn colours are yellow based, but with more intensity than those you will find in the Spring palette. The difference between these shades is the addition of black. These colours are earthy, with a grounding energy, similar to autumnal leaves- rich rust red, golden yellows, saffron and burnt oranges. Add in a range of earthy browns and greens to complete the palette.
Cousette Desert Primrose Cotton Crepe Fabric
Linear Leaves Brown Linen Viscose Fabric
Vintage Floral ECOVERO Viscose Crepe Fabric
If Autumn colours are not for you, have a look at our other seasonal blog posts- Spring, Summer and Winter.
]]>We have previously looked at how certain colours appeal to different personalities more than others, and choosing the right colour can affect your mood in our blog “Colour and You”. We have looked at how each colour can have a different affect on how we feel, now we are going to look at which tones fit with each personality type and how you can dress to feel like the best version of yourself based on this theory. The best colours to get that ‘glow’.
The chances are you will look at a colour palette and instantly be drawn to it as it is in harmony with your personality. If not, there are various quizzes you can take online or in “The Little Book of Colour” by Karen Haller. Many people have more than one personality type, with one being more dominant.
While each colour palette refers to a particular season, within each palette you will find three different ‘sub-palettes’ that will work throughout the year. While most of these soft, light shades are most commonly seen in summer, there are some richer greens, reds and blues that are popular fashion choices for the colder months.
Summer Party Lupine Petals Blush Pure Linen
The Serene Personality
The Summer or Serene personality is cool, calm and collected, which is reflected in the cool, blue based tones of the Summer colour palette. These colours have a soft and relaxed mood, similar to a hazy summer afternoon. The Summer or Serene personality will remain calm and graceful under pressure.
Elegant Peonies Cotton Lawn in Mint Green, Rose Pink and Dusky Blue
The Summer Colours
These colours feature grey which gives them their distinctive cool tone. They are subtle and understated, with shades like rose pink, sage, lavender, mauve and taupe featuring in this palette.
Scroll down for fabrics that feature these colours.
Vintage Laura on Light Sage Viscose
Ornate Paisley on White Viscose
Mind the Maker Flowery ECOVERO Viscose Leia Crepe in Fuchsia and Ocean
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The chances are you will look at a colour palette and instantly be drawn to it as it is in harmony with your personality. If not, there are various quizzes you can take online or in “The Little Book of Colour” by Karen Haller. Many people have more than one personality type, with one being more dominant.
While each colour palette refers to a particular season, within each palette you will find three different ‘sub-palettes’ that will work throughout the year. While ‘Light’ and ‘True’ spring feature the colours most commonly associated with this season, the darker shades of the ‘Bright Spring’ palette are commonly seen in many autumn and winter fabrics.
From Top: Ex-Designer Ditsy Spring Cottage Cotton Lawn, White Flowers Broderie Anglaise (sold out, similar here), Painted Pink Flowers on White Cotton Lawn, Sweet Fuchsia Cotton Broderie Anglaise Fabric, Sweet Lilac Cotton Broderie Anglaise Fabric (sold out), Sweet Emerald Cotton Broderie Anglaise Fabric.
The Playful Personality
The Spring or Playful Colour Palette features colours that are warm, bright, clear and delicate. The Spring or Playful personality is outgoing and spontaneous, with the warm, lively energy of spring reflected in their personality. These colours are cheerful and high spirited, just like the spring personality.
Summer Party Painted Foliage Pure Linen
The Spring Colours
The key features of these colours are their yellow base which gives the warmth, and they do not have any black which gives the clarity. They have a happy and lively bounce which we associate with spring.
Scroll down to find examples of fabrics featuring Spring shades.
Joyful Blooms Purple Viscose Twill Fabric
Blooms Soft Viscose Crepe in Candy Pink, Sunshine Yellow and Summer Sky.
If spring colours are not for you have a look at our other seasonal colour blogs- Summer, Autumn and Winter.
]]>We are right in the midst of ‘Linen Season’ and here at Lamazi we could not be more excited.
Linen has many beneficial qualities, including regulating your body temperature making it ideal for warmer weather and is a stronger and more sustainable fibre than cotton. To find out some more qualities of Linen have a look at our reel on Instagram.
We have gathered some ready to wear inspiration for our latest linen fabrics, including a new blend made with a brand new fibre. Read on to find out more.
Pure Linen
Breeze Deep Lagoon Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
We are constantly adding new colours to our range of Breeze Enzyme Washed Pure Linen’s with over 20 colours currently in stock. Some of our latest additions are Copper, Cream Aubergine, Cream Tan, Blossom and Light Sage. We have also introduced a lighter weight Pure Linen fabric in both solid colours and a Yarn Dyed melange effect.
Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer
Breeze, our enzyme washed linen is a beautiful environmentally friendly fabric with good body, wonderful handle and slub finish. It offers all the great qualities you would expect from linen such as breathability, comfort and naturalness without the harsh environmental impact.
This linen is washed with enzymes to soften the fabric and is not chemically treated. It is a wardrobe staple for spring-summer wardrobe and comes in beautiful range of colours. The fabric is easy to sew and gets softer and softer after each wash and with wear over time.
Breeze Cream Aubergine Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
Our Pure Linen fabrics have not been pre treated and have a crisp handle and slightly lighter weight. If you would like a more traditional linen handle this is the fabric you should choose. It is ideal for dresses, shirts, loose trousers or shorts and lightweight jackets.
Linen will provide structure for a garment whilst still feeling extremely comfortable. Garments such as dresses with puff sleeves or full skirts will work well. It is also ideal for making summer suits or co-ord sets (we think Agnes Pyjama’s would be the perfect holiday set in this fabric!)
Breeze Cream Tan Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
Sorona Linen- A New Eco Linen Blend Fabric
We are very excited to introduce this new type of fibre to our store. Sorona® is a partially plant-based polymer by DuPont that brings high-performance, sustainable fabric to the fashion industry and eco-conscious consumers. Sorona® polymer is produced with renewable bio-based PDO through a fermentation process from corn sugar, which contributes to environmental protection concept.
Closet Core Patterns Fiore Skirt
This new fibre has been blended with Linen, Viscose and Cotton to create a soft and lightweight fabric (45% Linen, 22% Viscose, 18% Sorona and 15% Cotton). It has a similar feel of cotton, along with the slub texture of linen and softness of viscose- what a dreamy combination! It offers the best qualities of all these fibres blended to create a sustainable fabric with no harsh impact on the environment.
Sorona Linen in Mountain Green
This fabric is perfect for most styles of garment. The structure from the cotton and linen will add extra puff to sleeves, while the viscose will add some extra swoosh to skirts. It is also ideal for lightweight jackets, tops, shirts, trousers, shorts or jumpsuits.
New Printed Linens
Summer Party Painted Foliage Pure Linen
Tilly and the Buttons Lyra Shirt Dress
Our new range of printed Pure Linen fabrics are perfect for summer. The Lyra pattern will give you different options for the length of the skirt and sleeves. The Hailey shirt is a great option for this fabric to add a pop of colour to your wardrobe that can be wore all year round.
Summer Party Lupine Petals Blush Pure Linen
Experimental Space Hailey Shirt
Co-Ords are big news this summer and a great piece to invest your time in. Super cute when worn together, the top and bottom can also be worn separately with other garments in your wardrobe. Made in linen this is the perfect piece to add to your holiday wardrobe.
Summer Party Painted Foliage Pure Linen
Tilly and the Buttons Esti Co-Ord
This nature print Linen Viscose Noil is giving us ‘Toile de Jouy’ vibes, the classic print featured recently on the Dior catwalk. We think this fabric would make a wonderful circle skirt inspired by this designer look. The Closet Core Fiore skirt could be lengthened to create this look, or keep it short for your own summer take on the style. You can also use the By Hand London Circle Skirt calculator to draft one yourself.
Natures Wonder Viscose Linen Noil
Closet Core Patterns Fiore Skirt
Of course don’t forget about the men. This ripple effect linen viscose blend is perfect for making a short sleeve summer shirt. The Fairfield Buton-Up is a perfect all year round pattern.
Water Ripples Blue Linen Viscose Fabric
Thread Theory No 10 Fairfield Button Up Shirt
Flow Linen Viscose Noil
Flow Green Viscose Linen Blend
Friday Pattern Company Saguaro Set
Our popular range of Flow Viscose Linen blend fabrics are perfect if you want the look of linen but softness of a viscose. This fabric is perfect for making 2-piece sets like the Saguaro Set or comfortable smock dress like the Named Clothing Ilma Smock Dress and Top.
Flow Mauve Linen Viscose Fabric
Named Clothing Ilma Smock Dress and Top
For more Linen inspiration check out our previous blog here or have a look at our blog for sewing with large prints, which features Linen Viscose Noil prints from Mind the Maker.
You magic also be interested in our blog “Holiday Sewing Inspiration”.
For more inspiration have a look at our Pinterest board too with lots of ideas for what you can make with Linen.
]]>In the spring of 2022 Lamazi launched their first range of exclusive design fabrics called Garden of Dreams which proved to be a big hit with customers so now, in Spring 2023, they are launching a second range called Summer Party. This collection includes printed linen and viscose marrocain and has been created by super-talented surface pattern designer Rachel Parker using vibrant shades and subtle pastels.
This is the Garden of Dreams fabric which I used to make McCalls Marina 8090 last summer. ‘Utopia’ is a Tencel with Lyocel Sateen and an absolute delight to sew and even nicer to wear, it has the most beautiful weight and drape. I squeaked this dress out of 2m of fabric and it was worth the head-scratching because I’ve worn it a lot.
Liana at Lamazi generously gave me my choice from the new collection so I opted for the gorgeous Painted Foliage design which comes on a fine, environmentally-friendly mill-washed linen, it is semi-sheer and reminds me of beautiful stained glass windows with the sun shining through them. It’s been lovely to work with so I’ll share some of my experiences of sewing with it with you.
Because the linen has been mill-washed it’s already beautifully soft but I gave it a pre-wash anyway for my own peace of mind, habit I guess plus I’ve learned the hard way over the years!
Like the Marina dress I wanted to use every possible scrap of the 3 metres of fabric so I chose to use the Maven Wendy Smock Top (which I already had) for the bodice and then a simple tiered skirt attached at the bottom. A tiered skirt is an excellent way to use every bit of fabric because, with a few calculations, you can simply cut (or tear with certain fabric types) strips across the full width of the fabric available, gather them up and attach to the layer above/below.
I chose to cut a size medium for the blouse although I probably could have sized down to a small, I actually reduced it though the underarm seam after trying it on the first time. I shortened the length by about 30cms too, the amount you need to shorten by will vary depending on the look you’re after. I also wanted more fullness in the sleeve so I ‘slashed and spread’ a traced-off copy of the sleeve pattern to give added volume.
Divide the sleeve pattern vertically into a number of even-width strips (not including the armhole edge though, that remains unchanged) and cut from the hem to just before the top leaving a tiny amount of paper still attached. Pivot each strip open to add fullness at the hem, plus an additional 3cms to the length for a longer finished sleeve. When you’re happy with the shape retrace the new configuration.
By folding the selvedges into the centre fold I could cut the front and back bodice pieces side by side [this is also useful when you need to ensure the good pattern match on a print] I used the various gaps between the sleeves and bodice pieces for the two small patch pockets and the front neck facing. So that I kept the remainder of the fabric as untouched as possible I had to cut and join lots of bias strips for the neck binding. From everything that was left I cut (across the fabric width) two strips measuring approximately 30cms deep and three strips approximately 40cms to form the skirt. [I could have simply cut the remaining fabric into two equal rectangles and made a gathered skirt from that but I wanted a more interesting skirt and sewing the skirt in tiers like this gives a fuller hem] Eventually there were only very small scraps left.
I opted to add some decorative stitching using this Gutermann Deco Stitch 70 thread. The trailing leaf design seemed appropriate from the wide selection my discontinued Pfaff Quilt Ambition 2.0 offers.
Attaching the V neck facing
More trailing leaf embroidery
Adding the neck binding-I gently pulled up the edge with two rows of gathering stitches first then attached the binding. Because the linen frays a bit (it’s a loosely-woven fabric so this tends to happen and is to be expected) I overlocked the edge before turning the binding over it to finish.
I secured the binding in place with more embroidery which ran right through to the tie ends as well.
Next I constructed the skirt, I opted to overlock the cut edges before gathering because of the potential for fraying-I would normally overlock afterwards.
I simply joined the two 30 cms strips at the short ends to form a loop, these seams would eventually match the side seams on the bodice. The three deeper strips were also joined at the short ends to form an even longer loop. I turned one long edge of this section and hemmed it using the trailing leaves embroidery and on the remaining long edge I sewed two rows of gathering stitches, this was pulled up and attached to the shorter skirt section. Finally I gathered the remaining top edge of the smaller loop and attached the whole skirt to the bottom of the bodice, no pattern needed!
Lastly, I created a casing on the bottom of the sleeves and ran elastic through them.
The fabric is semi-sheer and I’m wearing a nude slip underneath it but I didn’t feel the need to line it.
Like almost any linen some crumpling develops but I really don’t think it’s excessive or unsightly.
Lots of lovely volume for swishing about
I can’t wait to waft about in this over the summer months
Because of its semi-sheer quality I don’t think the fabric is particularly suitable for trousers or shorts, at least not without lining or mounting it first. It’s a softer linen which lends itself to more unstructured shapes, maybe with gathering, pintucks or soft pleats so shirts, blouses and dresses are ideal. It doesn’t have much drape though unless cut on the bias.
Thank you once again to Lamazi for providing me with this beautiful cloth, I know there are still a few more exclusive collaboration fabrics to come into stock so do keep an eye on the website or sign up for the newsletter. Small businesses are having a very tough time at the moment and I have no qualms about the quality of cloth and the standards of service that Liana and James continue to offer at Lamazi. I was given the fabric but have not received a payment for this article.
Until next time,
Happy Sewing
Sue
Fibre Mood 23 is here and we are excited to start sewing our summer wardrobe with these gorgeous patterns. This issue comes with 12 sewing patterns to create a capsule summer wardrobe, and as always they have endless hacking possibilities.
Have a look at our top fabric suggestions below, including fabrics featured in the magazine.
Kamala
Flow Green Viscose Linen Blend
Ultra feminine, yet playful: this wrap dress looks lovely with sneakers as well as a pair of summer sandals, and adapts seamlessly to your plans. The elastic in the shaped puffed sleeves creates extra volume. The tulip skirt drapes elegantly below the knee. Prefer something a little longer? Of course you can! The Kamala dress also has the perfect finishing touch with the darts at the back of the skirt, the pleats in the top at the back and of course a lovely tie.
Fabric advice
Choose your fabric to create the desired effect. Do you want volume? Then go for a stiffer material, such as poplin or jacquard. If you prefer a flowing, supple effect, then you can do that with a fabric like chambray, lyocell, (silk) satin, double gauze, linen.
Sharlene has used our Flow Linen Viscose to make the Kamala dress.
Fibre Mood Floral Outline on Pink Cotton Double Gauze
Summer Party Lupine Petals Blush Pure Linen Fabric
Leanne Dress
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Purple
Hello summer! This dress with narrow shoulder straps is just the job for hot days and humid evenings. Playful above the knee or glamorous down to the ankles: just choose your perfect length. A summer top – relaxed with a pair of jeans - is another fun option! Leanne adores a summer breeze and also looks really pretty in a light fabric. With a more structured fabric you gain extra volume and it becomes a real statement piece.
Fabric advice
Do you like something simple? With a flowing and supple fabric, Leanne hangs beautifully, giving you a minimalistic and elegant summer dress. Keen to make a statement? A stiffer fabric or fabric with an interesting structure, such as jacquard, poplin, seersucker or dobby gives your dress plenty of volume and will definitely turn heads.
Meet Milk Sina Sheer Frog with Tencel Lyocell Fibres
Summer Party Gemstones Green GOTS Organic Cotton Sateen
Maeve Skirt
Robert Kaufman Red Ventana Cotton Twill
The button-down skirt is a delightful classic that is easy to style. A feminine top, a basic shirt, a loose cardigan or a fine knitted jersey: Maeve matches every style and season, because you can make the skirt in pretty much any fabric. The model is closely fitted at the hips and drops in a light A-line towards the hem. Thanks to the darts in the front and back you can easily adapt the waist. The very best thing about this all-time favourite? It is a really simple sewing project and does not take too much time.
Fabric advice
Poplin, chambray, double gauze, linen, lyocell…there are almost no limits when it comes to this skirt! We would only warn against knitted fabrics. And the look? In one colour or with extravagant print, this classic design gets away with anything.
Meet Milk Frog Two Tone Plaid with Tencel Lyocell Fibres
Nona Top
Coral Gingham Viscose Seersucker
Bellissima! This lovely top is going to give you Mediterranean holiday vibes for sure, with its V neck front and back. The flounce is attached to the lining, creating a playful balloon effect. The zip is neatly concealed in the left side seam. We think this top looks most beautiful cropped at waist level. Would you rather make it longer? Then take care to widen the hem from the waist point.
Fabric advice
Nona becomes a real eye-catcher in a stiffer fabric like poplin, batiste or organza. Chambray, double gauze, lyocell or linen will also give extra volume. If you would like the playful top to be supple, choose a lighter fabric like (viscose) crêpe.
Elegant Peonies in Mint Green Cotton Lawn
Summer Party Rainbow Leaves Organic Cotton Sateen
Oriana Blouse
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Grass Green Combed Cotton
See that striking sleeve! Depending on the fabric you choose, you get an upright statement sleeve with lots of volume, or a floaty, supple and thus extra elegant sleeve. And the details? The gathers on the sleeve cap, the classic collar and hidden placket are in subtle contrast with the striking sleeves.
Fabric advice
The splendid sleeves in Oriana are enhanced in a woven fabric such as poplin or textured cotton. If you prefer something floaty, set to work with a fabric with more drape, such as double gauze, chambray, lyocell or crêpe.
Yarn Dyed Reversible Fuchsia Checked Cotton Double Gauze
Summer Party Lupine Petals Gree Morracain Soft Viscose Crepe
Petula Dress
Flow Scarlet Red Linen Viscose Blend Fabric
Following in Twiggy's footsteps: this playful A-line dress is not only wonderfully summery, it also looks cheerful and exciting with its sixties vibes. You can lengthen the dress or make it even shorter if you dare… Petula has a concealed zip and princess seams combined with a dart for a beautiful fit. The elegant neck and arm cut has been finished with an all in one facing.
Fabric advice
A statement Petula demands a fabric with extra body, to make the dress 'stand up' rather than 'fall down'. So choose, for example, woven jacquard, poplin or taffeta. Not such a fan of this voluminous effect? Then go for a supple fabric such as double gauze, chambray, lyocell or linen.
Fibre Mood Stone Washed Grass Green Combed Cotton
Quilla Top
Sweet Fuchsia Cotton Broderie Anglaise fabric
This classy, ultra-feminine top is an absolute 'must sew'. A challenging sewing project, but the result is a classic piece that will give you years of enjoyment. Quilla looks lovely short, although you can easily adjust the length if you like. Also, the sleeveless top has an A-line and high neck at the front and back. The neck and arm cut has been finished with an all in one facing. Anything else you should know? The side panels include some elastic for a fun effect. Furthermore, the Quilla will look completely different depending on your fabric and colour choice - it is up to your imagination!
Fabric advice
You can choose any number of fabrics for this Quilla, from chambray and modal to double gauze and seersucker. Tip: your work will be a little easier with a stiffer fabric like linen and poplin, compared to supple fabrics like crêpe. You can play with patterns and proportions by using a reversible double gauze and switching the side panels.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Purple
Reversible Gingham Cotton Double Gauze in Old Rose
Selah
See You At Six Fiesta Red Linen Viscose
Already in holiday mode, even if it's ages before you next pack your suitcase: Selah looks nonchalant and relaxed with its wide legs, high waist and buttons. These sailor style trousers look extra special with the row of buttons. Fun detail: the fastening turns into a pleat. The model is fitted around the waist and gets wider towards the hem. There are darts in the back, allowing you to adjust the waist as necessary. And the length? This is a long model, however, the culotte - a slightly shorter version - is also beautifully suited to your summer plans.
Fabric advice
Make Selah in a woven material with sufficient weight. Denim, twill cotton, poplin, (fine) corduroy, leather: everything is possible. Knitted fabrics, however, are less suited due to the details.
Washed Denim with Tencel Fibres in Light Blue
Trix Dress
Planning a party? Or simply fancy an extravagant look? This ruffle dress will be the eye-catcher in your summer wardrobe. The number of layers, that's up to you: go all the way, and you'll end up with a sensational maxi dress. Lose some layers and you'll have a midi dress, a mini dress or simply a top. The rectangular neckline and 3/4 balloon sleeves (with inner sleeves) top off this tropical treat.
Fabric advice
This dress is a real eye-catcher when the layers sway with your every step. So choose a supple fabric like (viscose) crêpe, lyocell, double gauze, or chambray. Popular seersucker gives a really lovely effect as well.
Retro Elora Brown Viscose with Tencel Lyocell fibres
Uzma Top
Fibre Mood Abstract Roses Linen Viscose Blend
Uzma goes minimalistic: simple, but perfectly finished. Plus, if you choose a really lovely fabric, you have a timeless garment that goes with many many outfits. This square neck top is cropped (although the length is easy to adjust), and also lovely and loose. The neckline and armholes are finished with an all in one facing. This requires a little effort but once that's done, you'll have a new top ready in no time!
Fabric advice
Do you love linen, denim or chambray, enjoy wearing double gauze, poplin or jacquard, a sucker for seersucker or batiste ... whatever you like, it will look lovely with Uzma. This pattern is great for using up small pieces of fabric, have a look in our Remnants section for a bargain!
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Coral
Vivienne Waistcoat
Hot, hot, hot this season! Classy, super-feminine and wonderful worn with a T-shirt or on her own. Vivienne is lined, has a loose fit and has a side panel plus a front and back panel. Seam lines add an elegant touch. Another must with this waistcoat: a row of buttons and welt pockets. Don't want the welt pockets? Then just leave them out, it immediately makes things easier and quicker…
Fabric advice
Vivienne is best in a stiffer fabric, such as twill cotton, denim, fine corduroy, medium to heavy weigt linen or gabardine. Light and supple fabrics are less suitable for this waistcoat.
For more information on each pattern, including fabric requirements visit the Fibre Mood website.
Throughout the ages, artists have used their clothing to stand up for political, environmental, or cultural ideals. Clothing is like a language, a form of expression that is powerful and full of meaning. In this issue Tauko are diving into the art of dressing inspired by our favourite artists. As a sewist, you are holding the magic wand in your hands, and clothing and dressing can be turned into a new creative art form!
This issue features 10 new patterns in this issue from various designers, along with editorial pieces from creatives. Read on to find inspiration and fabric suggestions for each pattern.
The TATA dress is a loose-fitting design with an elegant fall that works well with different body types. Built from simple shapes with a single rounded cut for the neckline, the dress follows the practice of zero-waste cutting. The repetitive cutouts allow you to get super creative in your mix of fabrics, patterns, and colours.
Choose light to medium-weight fabrics with drape. Viscose, Cupro, silk, and light Tencel are good choices. This pattern offers the opportunity to colour block with different colours of the same print or combine a print with coordinating solid colour.
Atelier Brunette Sandstorm Kelsey Viscose in Night, Blush and Off-White
SASHA by Sasha Huber
The SASHA design is a classy workers’ jumpsuit with patch pockets and an elastic band on the back. The design was created to fit many body types, which is why we have included an additional size for someone who is 55"/140 cm tall. When made from a lighter fabric, you can wear the jumpsuit oversized and add a belt if necessary. You can easily vary the design by removing pockets and adjusting the lengths of the legs and sleeves. The legs are made with facings so that you can roll them up if needed.
Choose a medium to heavy-weight fabric with no stretch. Consider using cotton, a cotton/polyester blend, linen, hemp, or denim. For an oversized style, choose a lighter fabric.
Summer Party Gemstones Navy GOTS Cotton Sateen
See You At Six Villagers Slightly Beige Cotton Canvas Gabardine
FELIX by Sadie Egan
The FELIX smock is a cross between a cobbler apron, a utilitarian fishing vest, and an organizational wall caddy. It adds large functional pockets to any outfit for crafting, collecting, choring, or exploring. The design was created as an imaginative solution for more pockets to hold tools while working in any sort of creative studio.
Choose a heavy-weight fabric with no stretch. Consider using cotton, hemp, linen, a linen blend, or denim.
See You At Six Abstrarium Cotton Canvas Gabardine Twill
PRISM by Aims Watts
The PRISM robe has adjustable ruching via drawstrings – you can make them as loose or as tight as you like. You can completely change the shape of the robe by adding a casing at the waist or under the bust and using additional drawstrings to cinch it. The robe has either patch pockets or inseam pockets, but you could also choose to remove the pockets completely and close the side seam. This design comes in two length variations: mini or midi-length.
The PRISM robe works best with lightweight, non-stretch woven materials. Anything floaty and airy (like double gauze, silk, linen, and cotton) is good. The ruching will create bulk, so we advise against using anything too heavy. This is another pattern that will let you play with different colours and patterns. We recommend our reversible double gauze for this pattern.
Reversible Red Checked Cotton Double Gauze
Art Gallery Fabrics Seedmap Dim in Rayon
PICNIC by Mila Moisio
The PICNIC dress has an angular hem with large pockets and a fitted bodice, creating an articulated, fun, and sculptural silhouette. Two different necklines (round and boat neck) allow you to vary the style.
The PICNIC dress works best in medium-weight woven fabrics. A cotton fabric with some stiffness, such as poplin, is lovely for this piece as it can hold its sculptural shape.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Natural
LEIJA by Kaisa Rissanen
The LEIJA trousers have a long crotch and an angular hem with large pockets, creating a sculptural silhouette. The statement design makes these trousers perfect for festive occasions, but they are also great for travelling and everyday use. You can easily adjust the leg opening and open the seam a bit to give the trousers more space.
The LEIJA trousers work best in medium-weight woven fabrics. A cotton fabric with some stiffness, such as poplin, is lovely for this piece as it supports the sculptural shape.
Garden of Dreams Night Sky GOTS Cotton Sateen
PINA by Vanessa Hansen
You can use the PINA pattern to make a maxi dress, a mini dress, or a top. Choose either shoulder straps or shoulder ties for your garment. This pattern features a fully lined design.
Choose woven, non-stretch, lightweight fabrics such as cotton lawn, viscose, silk, or lightweight seersucker.
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Solid Light Brown
Églantine & Zoe Fago Mulberry Viscose Twill
AURORA by Abby Huston
The AURORA dress is an apron-style full-coverage sundress that wraps in the back and closes with long attached waist ties that thread through an opening in one side seam and cinch at the natural waist in either the front or back.
This dress works best with light to medium-weight woven fabrics in natural fibres. The designer’s favourite is medium-weight linen – but silk noil, cotton poplin, cotton lawn, or lightweight denim would also work beautifully.
Yarn Dyed Striped Linen Viscose Blend in Olive and Navy
Orange Slub Linen with Tencel Fibres
APRIL by Susanna Smailova
Made from lightly quilted cotton, the APRIL jacket is great for multiple occasions – as a light mid-season liner or as leisurewear. You can use pre-quilted fabric or create your own. Experimenting with different quilt battings will allow you to create multiple looks with this simple design. The jacket is designed to be worn open; however, if you wish, you can add sew-on snaps or buttons to the front.
The APRIL jacket is designed for lightly quilted cotton double gauze or baby corduroy.
Fibre Mood Floral Outline on Pink Double Gauze
Nani Iro Fuwari Fuwari E Blue Double Gauze
AURI by Johanna Morris
The AURI design is a loose-fitting jacket that can be cropped or full-length. It features bold, wavy, asymmetrical lines that wrap around to the back at the side seam. You can sew the sleeves as a shorter cuton sleeve or make them full-length with a seamed sleeve. To highlight the wavy seams, try different combinations of colour-blocking, or experiment with other methods such as ruffles, topstitching, or other embellishments.
Choose light to heavy-weight woven fabrics, such as linens, cotton, chambray, wool coating, or boiled wool.
Breeze Enzyme Washed Linen in Blossom, Cream Tan, Deep Lagoon and Aubergine
Meet Milk Amber Hoya Jacquard Linen Blend with Tencel Fibres
For more details of the fabrics used by Tauko for the editorial photos visit their website.
I fell for this embroidered double gauze as soon as I saw it. The wavey pattern was different to the usual floral embroidered fabrics. There are a few patterns available with ruffles featured on various parts of the garment but I knew I wanted the puffy sleeve of the Anna Allen Anthea Blouse for this fabric.
Scalloped Border Embroidered Cotton Double Gauze in White (this fabric also comes in Navy)
I had to make a few easy tweaks to the pattern to get the look I was after.
The first step was to split the front and back piece of the Anthea Blouse. I started the line at the shoulder notch and curved it slightly towards the front. I drew a line on my pattern pieces and retraced these separately onto fresh tracing paper. I then added 1cm seam allowance along this new seam.
New pattern pieces
For the ruffle I used the shape of the ruffle on the Fibre Mood Tammy dress and lengthened it to 80cm which I would cut on the fold. The total ruffle length was 160cm which I would be cutting along the scalloped edge of the fabric. I didn’t want the ruffle to be the full length of the front and back as I want the option on to wear the blouse over trousers or tucked in. I started the ruffle 12cm up from the bottom edges.
Ruffle shape
For the construction of the garment, I first sewed the front and back shoulders of each front and back piece. I then gathered the ruffle and attached it to the centre front/back piece, and then attached the side front/back piece with the ruffle sandwiched in between. The rest of the garment was constructed as per the instructions.
Attaching the ruffle to the centre front and back pieces.
Attaching the side front and back
Once the ruffle was attached to both front and back pieces I topstitched the seam to the centre front/ centre back piece to help it lay on the right side.
The finished blouse
This pattern hack will work for many different top and dress patterns. You could add a similar ruffle to the True Bias Shelby dress which already has separate front and back pieces. You could also add a ruffle to the bodice of the Tilly and the Buttons Indigo Dress or Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress. You could also add a ruffle to the Lise Tailor Janie Jumpsuit.
Tilly and the Buttons Indigo Dress
Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress
If you don’t want to hack a pattern there are a few that already feature a ruffle details that is perfect for sewing with one of our scalloped border embroidered fabrics. The Tilly and the Buttons Marnie dress and blouse features the option for a ruffle. The Fibre Mood Tammy dress also has a ruffle in a v shape and can be made with our without sleeves. The Bella Loves Patterns Flor Dress and Top is a wrap style with ruffles.
Fibre Mood Tammy Dress from Special Issue 1
Bella Loves Patterns Flor Dress and Top
Tips for working with embroidered fabrics
I used a Frixion pen to mark all my notches on this fabric as the holes were close to some of them and I could not have snipped into the fabric.
When placing the centre front pattern pieces on the fabric I tried to avoid the areas with the most embroidery so make sewing the buttonholes a little easier.
It was tricky cutting through 2 layers of this embroidered double gauze so you may find cutting on a single layer easier.
Scalloped Border Embroidered Fabrics
Scroll on for a selection of the scalloped border embroidered fabrics we have in stock, from classic white Broderie Anglaise to printed viscose. Or you can visit our Embroidered Fabrics section to browse all of them.
Scalloped Border Garland Cotton Broderie Anglaise in White
Scalloped Border Eyelets Cotton Broderie Anglaise
Embroidered Vines on Black Viscose Fabric (this edge can be trimmed to create a scalloped border)
Scalloped Border Circles Cotton Broderie Anglaise Fabric
Border Embroidered Linen Viscose Fabric
Wildflowers on White Embroidered Viscose Fabric
Check an eye out for a video tutorial over on our Instagram and YouTube channel.
]]>We are excited to present our very own new collection of beautiful, luxurious and sustainable fabrics. Exclusively made for Lamazi Fabrics in small quantities, our latest collection “Summer Party” celebrates colour and its joyous impact on us.
In this collection we have introduced 2 luxurious printed linens and 2 morrocain viscose crepes, along with 3 organic cotton sateens (2 more are on the way).
Lupine Petals Morrocain Soft Viscose Crepe
Lupine Petals Morrocain Viscose Crepe in Blue and Green
Inspired by Monet’s impressionist floral paintings and the beautiful shape of Lupine flower petals, this hand painted abstract petals design is the most joyful composition of beautiful brushwork in vibrant and happy colours.
The fabric itself is the softest morracain crepe with ample drape and a textured matte surface which accentuates the brushwork of hand painting.
The Inks used in the production of “Summer Party” are also GOTS certified Organic quality and water based, so natural and sustainable, good for the skin and for the nature.
Anna Allen Anthea Blouse and Dress & Pomona Pants and Shorts
This soft Viscose Crepe will make a beautiful 2 piece set to mix and match throughout your wardrobe.
Pattern Fantastique Vali Dress and Top
This drapey viscose crepe lends itself perfectly to a luxurious dress. Choose a bohemian style like the Vali Dress above or a classic wrap style like the Roseclair Dress below.
Cashmerette Roseclair Dress Size 0-16 and Size 12-32
A swooshy skirt in this print will be a year round piece that you can style with everything from jumpers and sweaters to t-shirts and cami tops.
For a stand out look try combining both colours of this Viscose Crepe with the Fibre Mood Meryll Dress or Trend Patterns Bias T-Shirt Dress.
Trend Patterns Bias T-Shirt Dress
Lupine Petals Blush Pure Linen
Lupine Petals Blush Pure Linen
Lupine Petals Blush is a high quality softened linen offering classic benefits of breathability and crispiness of a good quality linen. It is lightweight and will make all types of garments or accessories. It is ideal for dresses, tops, shirts, tunics, lightweight jackets and trousers for your Spring / Summer wardrobe.
This linen is Mill Washed, a highly environmentally responsible method that involves mechanical softening process, without any use of emzymes, chemical substances or the waste of water unlike stone-washed linens requiring large amount of water.
Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer
A linen suit for summer will work hard in your wardrobe, with each piece getting styled individually and together. Pair the blazer with a slip dress for the perfect evening look or style it down with a white t-shirt and trainers.
Experimental Space Hailey Shirt
A linen shirt can work just as hard as a suit for summer, worn on its own or layered over a dress as a lightweight cover up.
For some drama, this linen will hold the volume in the sleeves of this Tulip Blouse from issue number 4 of Tauko Magazine.
Rainbow Leaves GOTS Organic Cotton Sateen
Rainbow Leaves GOTS Organic Cotton Sateen
Rainbow Leaves was designed by Rachel Parker, a lovely personality who has brought a lot of colour and joy to our handmade wardrobes. It features abstract design of leaves in bold and beautiful rainbow of colours.
Rainbow Leaves cotton sateen is smooth with a luxurious soft handle and silky finish. It is made from Organic fibres certified by The Global Organic Textile Standard. It is soft, sews beautifully and makes comfortable and attractive garments which are also sustainable.
If you have your own Summer Party to attend the Belle Woven Dress by Stlye Arc or the Aurelia Dress from Issue 6 of Tauko Magazine paired with our Rainbow Leaves Cotton Sateen will be both glamorous and comfortable.
To add some everyday joy and vibrancy to your wardrobe, the Bloomsbury blouse is your go to in this cotton sateen. It will be perfect paired with jeans or a pair of wide leg trousers or shorts.
Painted Foliage Pure Linen
Painted Foliage Pure Linen Fabric
Another design from Rachel Parker, Painted Foliage is exclusive to Lamazi Fabrics. It features abstract design of foliage in bold and beautiful colours.
If you are after some dramatic sleeves and a cute summer dress the Mindy Dress will pair perfectly with our soft pure linen. If you are after ruffles on your dress the Fibre Mood Tammy dress can be made sleeveless for summer. Or for something more classic the Tilly and the Buttons Lyra Dress will work.
Tilly and the Buttons Lyra Shirt Dress
Fibre Mood Tammy Dress from Special Issue No 1
We cannot wait to see what you all make with our latest collection of exclusive, luxurious fabrics and see the joy they bring to your wardrobe.
For more inspiration you can have a look at our Pinterest board.
We are turning our focus to a fresh spring colour palette, taking inspiration once again from our beautiful coastlines. Think of those first petals poking their way our from the harsh clifftop to great spring in colour, or those special sea shells found along the beach in the most unusual colours. This colour collection features all our favourite spring neutral shades, mixed with soft shades of sea green and coral.
Cornflowers on Blue Cotton Lawn, Ex-Designer Delicate Flowers Cotton Sateen, Umbrellas Green and Blue Cotton Lawn.
Elegant Peonies Cotton Lawn in Mint Green and Dusky Blue
Ex-Designer Hidden Wildlife Cotton Lawn, Palm Trees Cotton Double Gauze in White, Sand and Khaki.
Sailing Boats Organic Cotton Jersey in White and Navy, Entwined Flowers Dusky Blue Cotton Lawn
Yarn Dyed Blue Checked Cotton Seersucker, Small Flowers Light Blue Viscose/Rayon Fabric, Light Blue Slub Linen with Tencel Fibres, Spring Blooms Linen with Tencel Fibres.
Our attention is also turning to spring garments, with floaty boho dresses and shirts, loose trousers and lightweight jackets at the top of our list.
Entwined Flowers Khaki Green Cotton Lawn, Green Morris Cotton Lawn
Helpa Dress from Tauko Magazine Issue 4
Loose and floaty dress can be your best friend come spring time as they are easy to style and layer for all temperatures and will see you through to summer. If a full buffet style dress is not for you the Helpa dress from issue 4 of Tauko magazine offers the same loose style with a more streamlined approach.
Yarn Dyed Beach Stripes Pink Double Gazue
If you are after volume, the Fibre Mood Kika dress or Pattern Fantastique Vali Dress are perfect for spring. Made in a double gauze (like above) or a cotton lawn will offer even more volume.
Embroidered Flowers Off-White Cotton Double Gauze
Pattern Fantastique Vali Dress
Hazy Tapestry Beach Neutral Viscose/Rayon Fabric
The Closet Core Elodie dress is another perfect Boho Style dress which can be layered with a top underneath until the heat arrives. If you love the wrap dress style but want something more fitted try the Cashmerette Roseclair Dress.
Small Flowers Light Blue Viscose/Rayon Fabric
Crinkle Viscose Linen Blend in Cactus Green
The Fibre Mood Harper top is a fairly quick make but with some really interesting details to add to your spring wardrobe. This textured linen viscoe blend will really make the gathered detail stand out.
Sail Away Cotton Double Gauze in White, Blue and Navy
Add an interesting twist to a classic piece like the shirt with a fun print and puff sleeve. The Fibre Mood Carry shirt with its puff sleeve will have extra drama when sewn up in this fun sailing boat cotton double gauze.
Yarn Dyed Beach Stripes Blue Cotton Double Gauze
If you want to keep the top half of your outfit simple, go for a statement pair of stripe trousers. Perfect styled with a denim chambray shirt or a classic white t-shirt.
Cosy Quilted Coating Fabric in Navy
Cousette Buchette Shirt and Shacket
Quilted jackets were huge last year and it looks like the trend is here to stay. This pre-quilted fabric is perfect for making a lightweight but cosy jacket to add to all your spring outfits. The Buchette pattern from Cousette has a simple design which is perfect for this fabric.
For more inspiration for this colour collection head to our Pinterest Board, or take a walk along the coast to let nature inspire you.
Browse the full Coastline Colour Collection here.
]]>The latest issue of Fibre Mood is packed full of perfect patterns to create your Spring wardrobe, with 12 patterns and 29 variations in total. We have been crushing on Fibre Mood patterns and could not wait to get our hands on this latest issue.
Read on for more details of each pattern, along with our top fabric suggestions.
Amber Top
Peach Soft GOTS Organic Cotton Sweat-Shirting in Lemon Curry
This classic polo shirt style can be very simple in classic white, or let it shine in an eye-catching colour or print. This design takes very little fabric, making it perfect for remnants or left over fabric from previous projects.
Fabric Suggestions: There are many choices for Amber, as long as you chooose fabirc with enough weight. Pique (also called Polo fabric) is a safe choice, (ribbed) jersey, jacquard jersey, French Terry, or interlock. Woven fabrics can also create a nice effect.
Terrazzo White Linen Viscose Blend Fabric
Carry Shirt
Elegance Solid Sky Blue Stretch Viscose Poplin
Carry is a loose shirt which can be worn with skirts, jeans or trousers, or left over as a lightweight cover up. This style is oversized and can be sized down for a more fitted look. It comes with two sleeve options- classic or voluminous.
Fabric Suggestions: Nearly anything goes! Poplin, modal, Lyocell, linen, chambray, woven viscose, fine corduroy, or broderie Anglaise. solid coloured, discreet print or bright strips, checks or flowers- you can choose anything.
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Yellow
Elegance Solid Spring Green Stretch Viscose Poplin
Bernie
Chevron Light Blue Linen Cotton Twill
Bernie is an ankle length trouser with front pleats that are secured at the waistband and ankles. There is the option for welt pockets if you want a challenge.
Fabric Suggestions: Bottom weight fabrics like cotton twill, woollen fabrics, denim, fine corduroy, gabardine, leather. Avoid smooth flowing fabrics for this style as you will need structure to hold the pleats.
Drea Coat
Drea is a classic trench coat style, perfect for wrapping up on chilly spring days. It features storm flaps on the front and back, belted waist, collar and lapels, graceful back split and patch pockets.
Fabric Suggestions: a slightly stiffer fabric gives the best results- gabardine or twill cotton, nylon or denim.
Eve Dress
Purple Lilies Linen Viscose Blend Fabric
Eve is a loose boho style dress with a pretty, rounded, and slightly deeper neckline. The raglan sleeves with gathers and the hem and the delicate wrist cuff give off even more relaxing vibes.
Fabric Suggestions: Eve calls for airy, billowing, flowing fabrics such as viscose crepe, viscose, chiffon, double gauze and voile.
Crinkled Viscose Linen Blend fabric in Red
Fenna Skirt
Washed Denim with TENCEL Lyocell Fibres in Blue
Fenna is a fantastic addition to your wardrobe. At the front, it features a beautiful slit with shaped seam, a flattering front yoke and slash pockets. At the back there are darts for a perfect fit, and patch pockets.
Fabric Suggestions: a stiffer fabric will work best- denim, cotton twill or gabardine.
Gabriela
Atelier Brunette Corduroy Off-White Fabric
This short, loose body-warmer invites you to play with patterns, colour blocking, stripes in different directions… let your imagination run wild. With or without lining, finished with bias tape, tie fastenings, or slanted pockets. It’s lovely over a jumper with trousers or a skirt.
Fabric Suggestions: padded or quilted fabrics, corduroy, double gauze and woollen fabrics.
Harper Top
Simple yet special. The Harper top has three quarter length sleeves, a round neckline and wonderful gathers. Fastening is with a loop and button at the back.
Fabric Suggestions: This model really shines in stiffer fabric. Linen, poplin, Lyocell, viscose, chambray are top choices for Harper. Check the fabric layout first before choosing directional prints.
Cousette Shiny Checks Cotton Viscose Fabric
Indy Sweater
Meet MILK Fine Rib Jersey Amber with TENCEL fibres
Indy falls nice and loose and has wonderfully roomy, triangular sleeves. The round neckline, wide wrist trims and hem at the bottom add another lovely touch.
Fabric Suggestions: Rib jersey, french terry, interlock, fine knits or jacquard. Woven textiles can also be used but are less stretchy. If using a woven combine with neck, wrist and hem bands in rib/cuff fabric.
Judy Dress
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Yellow
Judy makes for a great party. Short or long, with puff sleeves and shaped waist seam with a gathered skirt.
Fabric Suggestions: If you want to go big, creating volume is a must. You do that with poplin, textured fabrics, Lyocell, linen, double gauze, broderie Anglaise, chambray, a nice woven jacquard. If you prefer to keep it more subtle, use a supple fabric such as viscose crepe.
Atelier Brunette Candy Rock in Tender Toffee Viscose Fabric
Kaya
Speckles Purple Viscose Fabric
Kaya has no frills or fancy cuts, but an attractive A-line and a V-cut at the front and back. You can put pockets at the side seam, or leave them out. This style is fully lines , and rewarding to make in different fabrics.
Fabric Suggestions: You can use woven or knitted fabric, so there’s a wide range of choices: interlock, Ponte Roma, jacquard knit, neoprene, quilted, wool, corduroy, denim.
Lennox
Cousette Shiny Stripes Cotton Fabric
If you want to combine cute and cool, then choose the short and spirited Lennox dress. The details: short sleeves with an extra wrap, drop waist, pleated skirt and a wide, elegant hemline. For the closure we chose popper tape, but regular buttons are also a great alternative.
Fabric Suggestions: If you like a classic look, opt for fabrics with structure or texture. Lightly quilted fabrics or a stiffer woven jacquard provide a more distinctive look. But poplin, seersucker, Lyocell, etc are also fine. Check the fabric layout first before choosing directional prints.
Meet MILK Blue Mist Two Tone Slim Stripe with TENCEL Lyocell fibres
Fibre Mood Cotton Linen Bark Jacquard in Deep Coral
For more information on all Fibre Mood patterns, including instructions and fabric layouts, visit the Fibre Mood website.
]]>It is therefore no surprise that Pantone have announced that their 2023 colour of the year will be “Viva Magenta”.
“Pantone’s Color of The Year, Viva Magenta 18-750, vibrates with vim and vigor. It is a shade rooted in nature descending from the red family and expressive of a new signal of strength. Viva Magenta is brave and fearless, a pulsating color whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration, writing a new narrative.” (Pantone website)
We have seen this trend growing here in the Lamazi studio, with the colour Magenta becoming one of our most popular colours this year. Other fabric brands have been embracing this strong shade of pink too. Meet Milk introduced the new shade “Punch”, Atelier Brunette included the new shade “Dahlia” in their summer collection and Cousette have a new shade “Aster”.
Meet MILK Saba Sheer Punch with Tencel Lyocell Fibres
Atelier Brunette Loom Off-White Linen Viscose Fabric featuring the new Dahlia pink shade.
Cousette Aster Solid Viscse Twill Fabric
Strong cool pinks like Magenta are physically stimulating due to the high intensity of the colour. It is sometimes seen as a more ‘grown up’ pink which could be a reason for its increasing popularity.
To celebrate this new colour of the year, we have created a colour collection ‘Viva Magenta’ online with all types of fabric to add to your me-made collection, along with lots of inspiration on how to wear it.
Colour Combinations
Magenta is an easy colour to wear for many people, with a balance of both warm and cool tones. This balance means it pairs well with many different colours, from vibrant orange to soft blush pink.
Add some joy and vibrancy to your winter wardrobe with this colourful combination. Pink and Green should always be seen in our opinion!
Top Tip: If full head to toe colour blocking is too much for you, keep your outfit neutral with denim and white, then add a pop of colour with accessories and jackets.
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta, Mind the Maker Organic Sweat in Jolly Green and Matching Rib, Abstract Grid Viscose Poplin
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta, Atelier Brunette Tile in Matcha Leaf Linen Blend fabric, Floral Circles Cotton Poplin
Meet Milk Punch Hoya Linen Jacquard with Tencel fibres, Atelier Brunette Tile in Matcha Leaf Linen Blend fabric
‘Viva Magenta’ will pair well with cool blue shades if you want to tone down your look. Pair it with denim or a classic blue shirt to achieve this look.
Meet Milk Lapis Light Diamond Jacquard with Tencel Fibres, Leaves in Blue Viscose Jersey fabric, Essential Chic cotton jersey in purple
Zoe in Pink Viscose Poplin. Cousette Debbie Aster Viscose Crepe, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Navy
Alternatively if you want to tone down this vibrant shade but need a warmer colour, shades of brown work well with it. Everything from classic camel to caramel and deep rich browns will tone in with this shade.
Cousette Aster Solid Viscose Twill, Nani Iro Piece by Piece Linen fabric, Lise Tailor Wonderland EcoVero Viscose Fabric, Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey in Pecan
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta, Cousette Simone Ecovero Viscose, Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey in Pecan
Atelier Brunette Flow Night Ecovero Viscose, Eglantine & Zoe Fago Mulberry Viscose Twill, Eglantine & Zoe Solid Caramel Viscose Twill
For a look that exudes luxury and strength try Magenta and Purple. These shades come from the same colour family, making them an ideal combination.
Top Tip: Pairing a print with a solid colour, as seen in the fabric combinations below, can break up this strong pairing and make it easier to wear.
Leaves in Blue Viscose Jersey fabric, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta, Meet Milk Derby Ribbed Jersey Purple Night, Meet Milk Two Tone Check in Purple Night
For a rich tonal combination we love Magenta paired with Red. Magenta comes from the Red family, so similar to purple, pairing these 2 strong shades will be easy. It will look just as good with a primary ‘post box’ red or deeper shades of burgundy.
21 wale Cotton Needlecord in Fuchsia, Lise Tailor Firework Flowers Viscose Fabric
Another easy combination belonging to the red family is Magenta and Orange. These bold and vigorous shades can be toned down with a ‘red-orange’, like Meet Milks Cider shade as seen below.
Meet Milk Cider Light Diamond Jacquard, Cousette Mirage Dark Viscose, Cousette Aster Solid Viscose Twill.
Key Garments to Make
Really with this trend, anything and everything goes. Skirts, Suits, Dresses, Knitwear and Coats will easily slot into your existing wardrobe and bring some joy to your day.
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta,
Skirts are the perfect garment to invest your time in as they can be paired with many items and styled to suit all seasons. Choose a maxi length with volume like the Dhurata Davis Olive skirt or choose something more slinky like a bias cut skirt.
Cousette Indira Aster EcoVero Viscose
Friday Pattern Company Saturday Set
The latest release from Friday Pattern Company is another versatile make that can be taken out for drinks or paired with cosy knitwear or jeans for a more casual look. In Cousette’s new Indira Print in Aster you will feel powerful and fearless.
Mind the Maker Organic Brushed Sweat in Fuchsia
Stay cosy in the Chalk and Notch Page Hoodie in the latest Mind the Maker Organic Brushed sweat fabric. You can keep the original length of the pattern of lengthen the body to wrap yourself up in even more of this soft and warm fabric.
Bella Loves Patterns Traveller Coat
If you want to incorporate Viva Magenta into your wardrobe everyday you can make a coat in this shade using our Pure Boiled Wool. While this piece will be an investment in your time, it will bring joy and vibrancy to your wardrobe for years to come.
Lise Tailor Firework Flowers Viscose
For your next party look the Fibre Mood Lucille dress will stand out in Lise Tailor’s Firework Flowers viscose.
Atelier Brunette Dahlia Linen Viscose Fabric
Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer
Feel fearless in the ultimate power suit! Again, this is a versatile make that can be paired together or worn separately. Either way, you will feel ready to take on the world when wearing these pieces.
Cousette Hariette Shirt in Debbie Aster Viscose Crepe
For a more understated look, a blouse in a vivid magenta shade will create a more subtle nod to this trending colour and can easily be paired with trousers or skirts already in your wardrobe.
Pantone chose this colour as it is “a transformative red tone capable of driving design to create a more positive future.” We are excited to see more of this beautiful, joyous colour over the next year and see what positive affects it can bring to our lives.
Shop the full Viva Magenta collection here and head to our Pinterest Board for lots more inspiration on how to wear this colour. If you would like to learn more about colour theory and how each of these colours can affect your mood, head to our “Colour and You” blog.
]]>Read the full Autumn Trends blog here.
There are a few different options of sewing pattern available for this style, but I have always had a soft spot for Trend Patterns so choosing the pattern was easy. “The Bomber” sewing pattern is oversized, with added volume in the sleeves created by pleats at the elbow and options for adding extra pockets and zips. It is very similar to the style seen at Isabel Marant.
As soon as the Cosy Quilted Puffer fabric arrived I knew instantly this was the perfect fabric. This fabric is pre-quilted and looks the same on both sides, so there is no need for a lining. The pattern does come with lining, so I had to have a good think about how I would finish the insides.
Cosy Quilted Coating Fabric (still available in Old Rose) and See You At Six Ribbing in Duck Green
The easiest option would be to overlock all the seams, but I felt like this was a make that deserved a little more love and attention. The Bomber jacket is a trend that has returned year after year, so I knew this would be a piece I will be using for a long time.
I opted for bias bound seams in the end and used an Ex-Designer cotton sateen (the same fabric I used for my Trend Patterns 70’s dress).
Ex-Designer Paisley Dream Cotton Sateen
I cut the fabric into 4cm strips on the bias and used a bias tape maker to iron it into double fold bias tape.
I needed a lot of bias tape!
The process of binding all my seams really made me slow down and think about each step, instead of rushing through this project. I took into consideration the order each seam was put together and if it would be best pressed open or together.
I used binding to finish the edge of all pockets and along the zipper opening. The only areas I overlocked were the edges attached to ribbing as this would need to retain the stretch.
For the side seams and sleeve seams I added the binding to each piece individually first and then sewed the seams together. For the armscye I sewed this seam together first and then attached the binding.
My duck billed or applique scissors came in very handy for this process as it made trimming the seams a breeze.
You can see the process of binding the seams on our Reel on Instagram or Short on YouTube.
In the few weeks since I have made this jacket it has got so much wear. It is nice a lightweight without the lining but still super cosy. I can wear it under a coat and still feel comfortable.
Sharlene’s blouse is made in our Autumn Tapestry Rayon/Viscose
It also pairs with a lot of my makes, from jeans and a shirt to floral dresses.
I am wearing the jacket with my ‘Autumn Blooms’ self-drafted dress here (fabric sold out).
Given how much I have wore this jacket already I am so happy I took the time to make it pretty on the inside. When anyone comments on how much they like my jacket I take great pleasure in flashing the insides and saying “Thanks! I made it!”. I feel that sewing a jacket is an investment and something you want to get a lot of wear from, so taking this extra time to make it special is worth it.
Keep an eye out on our Instagram and YouTube for more seam finishing techniques.
]]>There’s (Stan)hope for me yet.
I
Here are words I never expected to hear myself say: I flipping love this sweatshirt!
So much so I have made three. Admittedly the first was a test version, made from the larger 12-32 size range that I have always used in the past, and did require some modification to get a fit that I was happy with. (More about that later…)
The second was a recut of an older raglan sleeve Linden sweatshirt whose fit I never liked, and the third was cut from the same size, but from the smaller size range 0 -16, in this lovely fabric given to me my Lamazi Fabrics.
I wondered what the reasoning was for two separate size ranges and Mr Google informed me that the smaller size range is drafted from a different block entirely, and there are a few differences.
https://blog.cashmerette.com/2021/02/introduction-to-our-new-0-32-size-range.html
This answers a lot of questions for me. I am attracted to Cashmerette patterns because I always have to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA ) on my patterns but when I work from the original size range 12 - 32 there is still too much fabric around my upper chest and neck.
This smaller size range seems to address that issue for me, although I did lengthen the body section, when I checked the pattern for the cropped version I wanted it was 2 cms shorter than my previous ones from the 12 - 32 range.
I am fairly long waisted and I generally find these patterns are short in the body for me.
I bought the pattern as a pdf as part of the Cashmerette Club, it came with both size ranges and an expansion pack for the half zip front and stand collar, and skirt pieces to make it into a dress.
All my earlier Cashmerette patterns are paper so I would have to buy the smaller version separately. I have already done that with the Concorde t-shirt - out of curiosity - which sent me down this journey.
My first version (in yellow) from the 12 - 32 size range had too much fabric around my upper chest. I was able to deal with that by unpicking the shoulder yoke at the front and pinning out the excess, around 2cms graded to 0 at the armscye and neck edge. I then topstitched the yoke back into its new position, and bingo! It worked.
My most recent version from the 0 - 16 range fitted me straight from the packet. Goodness me! That has never happened before.
Construction variations:
Pocket lining - I used quilting cotton. I wondered if it would shrink differently when it was washed, but nothing has moved.
I cut the inside collar facing from an old single jersey t-shirt because I thought the sweatshirt fabric I had for the sleeves would make chunky seams. I interfaced the inner collar only with a lightweight tricot interfacing to preserve the stretchiness of the single jersey.
The seams on the outer collar were pressed open and I was careful to ensure that topstitching would line up with the topstitching on the body and yoke.
I used a coil zipper cut from a continuous length. This avoids having to search for specific length zips and the silver coil on a black tape looks fine with many different colours.
There are plenty YouTube videos about how to deal with attaching the zipper pull. I used this one by Sallie Tomato.
To seal the bottom edge I stitched (slowly and with the handwheel) back and forth across the zipper, trimmed the coil quite close to the stitching, then top stitched a strip of seam binding over the top of the stitching - again being cautious and using my handwheel, I have broken needles in the past by using the foot pedal, so now I always handwheel.
I actually used a small strip of the tape that Lamazi wrap their fabrics in when they are delivered.
I found the most accurate manner of zip insertion was to mark the position of the zip clearly on top of the piece of the interfacing. Do not use a Frixion pen because the markings will disappear if you press it again. Ask me how I know! I then stitched around the marked lines as an indication of where to sew.
The main difference is when you come to enclose the top of the zip, because there is no zip stopper at the top of the zip the teeth need to be trapped between the two layers of the collar and it’s facing to provide a stop point for the zip. (I made a zipped top tracksuit when I was on Series 5 of the Sewing Bee and Esme enthusiastically zipped the jacket up during the judging and the fastener flew straight off the top of the zip. I won’t be doing that again!)
I often shorten zips, but from now on I will shorten them from the bottom as this method worked well and looks pretty neat. It also will preserve the top zipper stop. You can buy the stoppers and apply them yourself, but they will always be metal and not necessarily match the colour of your zip.
It was worth while stay stitching the neck edge before attaching the collar, as in my various trying on sessions I must have initially stretched the neck edge, which didn’t make attaching the collar lining particularly easy.
When it came to stitching down the collar facing, the instructions said to bind the edge with seam tape, but I found it hard to get a good finish. In the end, I trimmed off 6mm and bound the bottom edge with bias tape, which was more in line with the stretchy nature of the fabric. I carefully pinned and basted the finished edge to just below the stitching line, then stitched in the ditch from the right side.
On my third version I simply serged the bottom edge, again trimming 6mm off, and top stitched it down. It looks just as neat.
All in all, I now have a sweatshirt that is a little more interesting than a standard raglan style and fits me very much better. By using a contrast for the sleeve and yoke it has similar lines to a raglan cut sleeve but without all the excess fabric around the underarm area that I have always disliked with a raglan sleeve.
The fabric I used was a Denim Blue Jungle sweatshirt fabric, together with Cosy Colours speckle sweatshirt fleece in Dark Navy which was generously provided for me in return for a blog post. Thank you very much, I really enjoyed working with it.
I was initially doubtful about which colour of contrast fleece to choose, but a quick message to Liana at Lamazi fabrics helped solve that issue.
Because this pattern fits me so well I am going to use it as the basis for a round neck edge to edge jacket in some boiled wool boucle for autumn that I have in my stash. I will probably make a size larger to allow for wearing something underneath. Also I think it will be my go-to pattern for standard round neck sweatshirts in future.
I will now use Cashmerette’s smaller size range exclusively, and look forward to them updating all their patterns to incorporate this extra block.
The Denim Blue Jungle fabric Janet has used is now out of stock, however we have 2 alternative prints available shown below. These cotton sweatshirting fabrics have a fleece back making it extra cosy for the winter months.
Painted Stripes Blue Fleecy Cotton Sweatshirting Fabric
Flower Stalks Denim Blue Fleecy Cotton Sweatshirting fabric
We also have a new selection of fabric bundles coming soon if you would like to recreate Janets colour blocked look. Make sure you are signed up to our newsletter to find out when these are available.
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With every new season comes the opportunity to reassess our wardrobe and look for those elusive “wardrobe gaps”. It also offers up the chance for a fresh start.
Our latest colour collection, Beach Fossils features a fresh and clean colour palette in neutral shades of brown, blue and grey. Inspired by the treasure collected at the beach, these soothing shades are perfect for the seasonal transition.
If building on your wardrobe basics is on your to-do list this season then this collection is ideal. It may also help you fill in those wardrobe gaps, which most of the time tend to be the basic items we over look in favour of pretty dresses in colourful prints.
Our inspiration for this collection features a range of key garments you will reach for over and over again, which will slot easily into your wardrobe.
Tops
Hazy Thick Stripes Navy Cotton Jersey
Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top and Dress
The classic “Breton Top” has been around since the reign of Coco Chanel who first brought this style into the spotlight. Paired with jeans and a classic beige trench coat you will look stylish and feel comfortable.
Another top that will work hard in your wardrobe is the perfect Black Sweater. This can be styled with a range of garments, from a full suit for a casual look or a printed floral skirt and boots. Made in our Splendour Modal French Terry (which comes in a range of colours) you will never want to take it off!
Splendour Modal French Terry in Black
Tilly and the Buttons Billie Sweater and Dress
Another classic style is the oversized stripe shirt. In grey, beige or blue this will tie in with many pieces in your wardrobe and is the ideal lightweight layering piece now that the temperatures are up and down.
Fine Stripe Light Grey Cotton Linen Blend
Paper Theory Olya Shirt and Shirt Dress
Trousers and Skirts
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Black
Cousette Jupette Skirt Pattern
A black skirt in our new Serene Sandwashed Viscose is a style that will see you through all seasons and can be dressed up or down. Alternatively this stlye will look great in a monochrome print which you can mix with other colours.
Beige Floral Field on Black Viscose
Beige or grey trousers are another wardrobe staple that can be easily styled with items already in your wardrobe. Opt for a full suit in our Breeze Enzyme Washed Linen or choose a softer look with a linen viscose blend.
Breeze Grey Enzyme Washed Linen
Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer
See You At Six Glacier Grey Viscose Linen Blend
The Avid Seamstress The Culottes
Another classic style to create from this colour collection is the Blue jean. The latest trousers from Named Clothing, The Aina Culottes and Trousers have an adjustable waistband while still looking stylish.
Named Clothing Aina Culottes and Trousers
Dresses
Atelier Brunette Seed Night Kelsey Crepe Fabric
Cousette Bridgette Dress and Blouse Pattern
A classic black polka dot midi dress will stand the test of time, and we love this subtle graphic twist in the Atelier Brunette Seed Crepe.
For a dress that will work all year round, a beige cami dress can easily be layered to suit the season. For autumn, try layering it over a Nikko top in one of our Allure Soft Jerseys (which can be bought as a kit here).
The Shaket
Highland Cream and Blue Yarn Dyed Cotton Flannel
To tie the colours together from this colour collection a checked flannel shacket is perfect, and another lightweight layer that will work for the changing autumn temperatures. You can lengthen the Heather Blazer to achieve this style or for a collarless style try the new Cousette Buchette Shirt.
Cousette Buchette Shirt and Shacket Sewing Pattern
For more inspiration for this Colour Collection visit our Pinterest Board.
]]>This season is looking a little different in terms of “trends”. One of the biggest trends to come from the Autumn/Winter ‘22 shows was the return of high quality, beautifully made clothes that you will treasure for a lifetime. A focus on classic wardrobe hero’s makes sense when we live in a culture where social media has become the driving force behind many recent trends, and the fast paced nature of the various platforms results in a ‘fad’ as opposed to a trend that will quickly be forgotten about and replaced.
High end fashion brands are also starting to take notice to the environmental impact fast fashion is having. A shift in how we view our garments was long overdue, it is time to treasure them rather than throw them away.
This is a trend we can definitely get on board with in the sewing community, knowing how much time and effort can go in to creating garments. This is the season to take your sewing skills up a notch and learn a new skill, and some of the biggest runway trends will provide the perfect opportunity for this. Instead of just the biggest trends this season, we are going to look at the key garments to invest your time in making, as well as the trends that are popular. These will become true wardrobe staples for you, the items you will look forward to wearing for many years to come.
The Blazer
All images from British Vogue August 2022
This is a trend we saw emerge during the summer, with a tailored blazer providing the perfect cover up. This season you will see them paired with everything, from slinky slip dresses to baggy trousers and tank tops and even tracksuit bottoms (as seen at Gucci).
A tailored blazer will provide the perfect starting point if you want to “up your sewing game”. Patterns like the Bella Loves Patterns Fran Blazer or Closet Core Patterns Jasika Blazer will take you on a deep dive into the world of tailoring. This is the sort of project that will take weeks, maybe months to complete, but at the end you will have a garment you can truly cherish forever.
Other patterns you can choose include The Avid Seamstress ‘The Blazer’, the Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer or the Homer and Howells Blair Blazer.
From left: Bella Loves Pattern Fran Blazer, Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer, Closet Core Patterns Jasika Blazer, The Avid Seamstress The Blazer, Homer and Howells Blair Blazer.
In terms of fabric you can go bright and bold or stick with the classics. Our Breeze Enzyme Washed Linen is perfect for a lighter weight blazer and comes in a range of colours to suit all tastes.
From left: Breeze Enzyme Washed Linen in Deep Lagoon, Cream Tan, Fuchsia, and Blossom.
A cotton twill or cotton blend is also suitable for making a blazer. Go for a neautral shade with some texture like our Chevron Cotton Linen blends, a classic white blazer or a soft green. Alternatively our Ventana Cotton Twills come in a range of bold shades to make a blazer that will stand out.
From left: Chevron Blue Linen Cotton Twill, Wool Blend Cotton Twill in Cream, Cousette Verveine Cotton Gabardine, Chevron Red Cotton Linen Twill
From left: Robert Kaufman Ventana Cotton Twill in Red (Garnet Brown), Beryl Green, Dark Navy.
You can also go all out and make a statement with a printed blazer as seen at Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Have a read of Vicki’s blog “Statement Suits” for more inspiration on this trend.
For something more lightweight, with drape and a luxurious sheen go for a Tencel or Cotton Sateen. For a more structured look try a cotton canvas or gabardine to create your statement blazer.
From left: Nerida Hansen Greta Laundy Canvas on Cotton Sateen, See You At Six Foliage Song Green Cotton Gabardine, Garden of Dreams Midnight Blooms Tencel Sateen, Rifle Paper Co Menagerie Black Unbleached Canvas
The Tailored Trousers
From left: Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Etro Autumn/Winter 22 collections.
We can’t mention investing time in a tailored blazer without giving equal coverage to its partner- the tailored trouser. Go for classic black or a bold pop of colour for this trend. The same fabrics will work for both the Blazer and Trousers. Alternatively you can go for a Lyocell with a beautiful drape for trousers you can wear casual with trainers or dress up with heels. For a black pair with ample drape (similar to those seen at Etro) go for our Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Black.
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Ochre, Grey, Cream and Red
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Black
You can opt for a wide leg trouser for this trend (Sharlene’s current favourite!) or a slimmer leg. The Bella Loves Patterns Billie Trouser has a wide leg fit with lots of beautiful finishing on the inside. The Avid Seamstress The Culottes have a similar wide leg style with a simple closure at the back. For a slimmer style the Deer and Doe Acajou has an elasticated waistband at the back for extra comfort or The Avid Seamstress The City Trousers have a slim silhouette.
From left: Bella Loves Patterns Billie Trousers, The Avid Seamstress The Culottes, Deer & Doe Acajou Trousers and The Avid Seamstress The City Trousers.
The White Tank
From left: The Row, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Dior and Chloe- All Autumn/Winter 2022 collections.
Tank tops and Autumn are not some thing you would usually pair together, but in a season that is focused on making key garments that will last it makes sense to focus on the most basic of garments. This simple wardrobe basic will see you through all seasons and when made in a luxurious fabric it will feel amazing to wear. You can layer it under your favourite sweater or cardi, or a loose style over a fitted top with trousers.
Of course it does not need to be limited to white. Our silky soft Derby Ribbed Jersey from Meet MILK will create a luxurious top and comes in a beautiful range of colours.
From left: Meet MILK Derby Ribbed Jersey with Tencel™️ Modal Fibres in Lapis, Pecan, Emerald, Purple Night and Warm Sand.
For a classic ribbed tank look our Cosy Cotton Wide Ribbed jersey is perfect. This fabric is wider than most ribbed jerseys and has a super soft reverse making it even more comfortable.
Cosy Cotton Wide Ribbed Jersey
For patterns the free Helens Closet Luna Tank has a loose and easy to wear shape. If you prefer a v-neck style the Chalk and Notch Pony Tank and dress will work. For a classic rib tank style try the Paradise Patterns Blomma Tank with a crew neck or True Bias Zoey Tank and Dress with a v-neck.
From left: Helens Closet Luna Tank, Paradise Patterns Blomma Tank, Chalk and Notch Pony Tank and True Bias Zoey Tank.
The Elevated Bomber Jacket
From left: Isabel Marant, Christian Dior, Prada, David Koma and Elie Saab.
The bomber jacket is a piece that can transition easily from day to night, weekday to weekend. You can choose to make a statement in a bold print or stick with a classic solid colour.
A bomber jacket in Tencel™️ Sateen will up the glam factor in this otherwise casual piece. Our own Garden of Dream Tencel Sateens will work for this style.
From left: Watercolour Blossom, Midnight Blooms and Utopia Tencel™️ Sateen from the Garden of Dreams collection.
Embriodered bomber jackets were seen on the catwalk at Elie Saab and Prada. To recreate this look you can use one of our embroidered tulles with an under lining (like our range of Serene Sandwashed Viscose) to create a truly special piece. You can opt for a contrast colour for the underlining or stick with black. We have a selection of ribbings available to finish off your jacket.
From left: Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Magenta, Zodiac Mesh Embroidered Tulle Fabric, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Teal
From left: Queen Bee Mesh Embroidered Tulle Fabric, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Black, Queen Bee Mesh Embroidered Beige Tulle Fabric.
For pattern options you can choose the Trend Patterns The Bomber Jacket for a classic style, or if you want some sleeve detail the Maison Fauve Sunset Jacket has beautiful cuff. For interesting style lines you can try the Kuulas Jacket from the Named Clothing book Building the Pattern.
Trend Patterns The Bomber Jacket, Maison Fauve Sunset Jacket, Named Clothing Building the Pattern (book) Kuulas Bomber Jacket.
The Autumn Maxi
From left: Who What Wear, Style DuMonde, Refinery29. All from Pinterest.
Maxi dresses are definitely not reserved for summer anymore. Layer up with tights, leggings, thick socks, thermals and boots to beat the autumn chill and stay stylish!
We have a beautiful selection of prints in rich autumnal colours to suit this trend perfectly.
From left: Floral Field Black Viscose Twill, Paisley Sketch Plum Viscose, Floral Field Black Soft Viscose Crepe, Autumn Blooms Viscose.
If you are a fan of brighter colours we also have some fabrics to make a bright and cheerful autumn maxi, perfect for wearing on grey and dreary days.
From left: Abstract Grid Viscose Poplin, Watercolour Bouquet Viscose Twill Fabric, Zinna Emerald Viscose/Rayon
When choosing a pattern for this trend the key details are long sleeves (to hide the extra thermals underneath) and long skirts with plenty of swoosh. Our favourite patterns for this trend include the Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown, By Hand London Eloise, Deer and Doe Passiflore and Trend Patterns 70’s Dress. You can also add an extra tier or lengthen the skirt of the Friday Pattern Company Davenport dress to make it maxi.
From left: Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown, By Hand London Eloise Dress, Deer and Doe Passiflore, Trend Patterns 70’s Dress (Sharlene’s version in our Paisley Dream Cotton Sateen) and Friday Pattern Company Davenport Dress.
If you are after more versatility with this trend a maxi skirt is a great option. You can make a ‘Secret Two Piece’ (read Vicki’s blog for more on this brilliant idea) or opt for a printed or plain skirt to pair with cosy sweaters. You can also pair it with another of this seasons key pieces- the vest and blazer. This look will work with either a plain or printed fabric.
From left: Zinna Light Green Viscose/Rayon, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Khaki, Floral Bouquet Dark Teal Stretch Viscose Poplin, Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Mauve
For patterns you can use the True Bias Mave skirt for a tiered look. The Sabina skirt is a free pattern from The Little Pomegranate and is perfect for beginners. For a button front version try lengthening the Sew Liberated Estuary skirt.
From left: True Bias Mave Skirt, The Little Pomegranate Sabina Skirt and Sew Liberated Estuary Skirt.
Athleisure
From left: Gucci, Vogue, Gucci and Blog de Moda
We may be out of lockdown now but the Athleisure trend is still going strong, and with classic sports brand Adidas collaborating with high end fashion labels like Gucci and Balenciaga we can’t see this trend disappearing any time soon.
What this means for us is that we can keep sewing the cosy loungewear in our favourite French Terry fabrics we have become so accustomed to in recent years. For luxurious comfort our Splendour Modal French Terry feels incredibly soft against the skin and is soft and fluid.
Splendour Modal French Terry in Grey, Petrol Blue, Pink Lavender and Denim Blue
If you are after something with a print we have a range of soft and cosy fleecy backed sweatshirting fabrics and a huge range of printed French Terry’s from See You At Six.
From left: Jungle Fleecy Cotton Sweatshirting fabric in Denim and Pink, Leopard Fleecy Cotton Sweatshirting in Pink and Green.
From left: See You At Six French Terry- Treelife Country Air Blue, Plants Glacier Grey, Wild Roses Duck Green, and Trail Aragon Brown.
The Closet Core patterns Mile End Sweater and Plateau joggers pair well together if you want the full loungewear look and the sweater features an interesting tie detail. Other options include the Chalk and Notch Paige Hoody for a stlyish cropped hoody which looks just as good paired jeans as it does joggers. The Arenite Pants by Sew Liberated can be sewn in both knit and woven fabrics so you will get lots of use from this pattern. Or if you are after a statement sleeve the Tilly and the Buttons Billie Sweater and Dress has the option for a dramatic sleeve.
From left: Mile End Sweatshirt, Plateau Joggers and Shorts, Arenite Pants, Billie Sweatshirt.
One of the big things we have taken away from the autumn trends is how they all work together in harmony to create a complete capsule wardrobe. This is the season to make conscious decisions about what you are making, thinking about how it will last in your wardrobe and work with your existing wardrobe.
Remember- “Buy less, Choose well, Make it last”.
If you would like to see more Autumn Trends inspiration check out our Pinterest board.
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The pattern is the Adventurer Raglan by Waves and Wild (formerly known as Made by Jacks Mum). The pattern itself comes with a great selection of options to create different styles of Raglan Jumper. It also has a great age range - tiny newborn to 12 years.
I have made the basic raglan several times for Ezra and Iris, the raglan sleeve makes it a great beginner pattern, and if you own an overlocker then it’s an even quicker make! As you know children grow fast, and can get through clothes quite quickly so I really love that the pattern is simple. I also find that my two prefer to wear jersey over woven - Iris has quite sensitive skin - so another reason that this pattern is a favourite.
Now the thing that really makes this my number one pattern - pattern hacks that have turned this raglan into an even more versatile pattern. First of all you can hack this into a basic t-shirt. You will need to shorten the sleeves and remove the wrist cuffs, then length the front and back bodices to to account for removing the waist cuff. When sewing use a single fold hem on the sleeves and bodice to finish instead of the ribbing that you would have used for the sweater.
I have also hacked this into two dresses for Iris, and they are definitely her most worn garments in her wardrobe. First up is the A-Line dress. Take your front bodice pattern pieces, decide on the length of the dress and how wide you want the hem to be. You then need to draw a straight line from the underarm out to the side seam edge of the hem. Repeat this with your back bodice so it is the same length and hem width as the front bodice. I find the easiest way to get both front and back the same length is to overlay the pattern pieces with the shoulder seams matching. See the diagram below for the before and after pattern pieces.
For sewing you create it the same as the raglan sweater, but instead of sewing ribbing to the bottom of the dress you sew a single or double fold hem.
Next is the gathered skirt dress. For this dress I shorten the front and back bodices - just like the A-Line dress they need to be the same lengths, for this I like to measure from the underarm seam, or you can overlay them at the shoulder seam and trim them both down to size at the same time.
Next you need to create a new pattern piece for your gathered skirt. Chose the length you would like the skirt to be. Next chose the width of your skirt pieces, you can have as much or little gathering as you like for this, but I like the width to be double the width of my bodice pieces. I cut the skirt out on the fold, like you do with the bodice piece. I have made the width of my skirt piece double the width of the bodice pattern piece, you will then need to cut out 2 skirt pieces on the fold.
For sewing the gathered skirt you create the bodice like you would for the raglan sweater. You then sew the two skirt pieces together at the side seams. Next you need to sew gathering stitches around the top of the skirt pieces. Then you attach the skirt to the bottom of the bodices. Finally hem the skirt with a single or double fold hem.
For the sleeve of the dresses you can either leave them as they are with the wrist cuffs. You can lengthen them slightly to create a sleeve with no cuff - you will need to account for the length you would have gained from adding the cuff. You can also go for any length in-between by shortening the sleeve - for example short sleeves or 3/4 lengths.
You could also add side seam pockets to this pattern, or what about trying a 2 tiered skirt. I would like to have a go at making a sleeveless dress as some point too.
For fabrics you can also use different weights to create different styles of dresses, a sweat shirting or French Terry would be great for an autumn/winter dress. Cotton jersey’s are great for warmer weather or with layers for the cooler months.
The raglan style sleeve makes it a perfect pattern for colour blocking and using up any remnants, I really like using a contrast sleeve. For the neck ribbing you can also opt to use jersey instead of a ribbed fabric, I tend to like making my neckband a fraction longer if I’m not using ribbing as the jerseys don’t have the same amount of stretch.
For these garments I have used 1 metre of the Jungle Green cotton Jersey fabric, and 1 metre of Bright Flowers Blue Cotton Jersey and a coordinating plain jersey, as always they are of a beautiful quality. I love the designs and both children have already received many compliments, which is always nice to hear! (Especially the extra surprise when you say you’ve made them yourself!).
Our jersey colour bundles are perfect for creating these garments. Check out some below or visit our “Colour Bundles and Sewing Kits” section and save 10% compared to purchasing the fabrics separately.
Colour Bundles - Summer Flowers Blue with Essential Chic Jersey
Colour Bundles - Jungle Organic Cotton Jersey Fabric
Colour Bundles - Tropical Fruits with Orange Essential Chic Jersey
A.K.A British heatwave dressing! With temperatures rising this week in the UK and many of us planning summer holidays we have pulled together some inspiration for what to make and wear when the temperatures rise.
Shirts and Shorts
Cousette Majorelle Double Gauze Fabric
Sometimes know as secret pyjama’s, you can indeed use your favourite pyjama pattern to make this set. The Paper Theory Agnes Pyjama’s have the perfect loose slouchy fit for keeping you cool in the heat and can be made in a super soft double gauze or our popular Flow Linen viscose blend for the ultimate secret pyjama’s.
Flow Green Viscose Linen Blend Noil
For a slightly more tailored look The Everyday Shirt and The Culottes by The Avid Seamstress are perfect. Shorten The Culottes into shorts for a ‘city short’ style.
Make an Outfit- Floral Field Twill with Lilac Linen Fabric Bundle
The Avid Seamstress The Everyday Shirt and The Culottes
Dresses
Zinna Emerald Viscose/Rayon Fabric
Papercut Patterns Maya Cami/Dress Pattern
Light and floaty dresses are the easiest option to throw on when the temperatures rise. Loose ‘cami’ style shapes with thin straps are ideal for keeping cool. Choose a lightweight printed viscose or a solid colour double gauze with a hint of sparkle. Or stick with the summer classic- gingham!
Atelier Brunette Stardust Amarante Double Gauze
Beige Gingham Viscose Seersucker
Paradise Patterns Hallon Dress
If you need a style with a thicker strap the Named Clothing Ilma Smock dress or Nina Lee Kew dress will work.
Breeze Blossom Enzyme Washed Linen
Named Clothing Ilma Smock Dress
Bold Magenta Flowers Viscose Twill Fabric
Jumpsuits
Bold Flowers in Brilliant Blue Viscose Twill Fabric
If a jumpsuit is more your thing there are lots of loose styles that will work for warmer weather. The Style Arc Mildred will cover your bra straps while also providing a loose fit.
For a shorter style the Named Clothing Helga Playsuit is a great option to keep cool. While black would be a classic wardrobe staple, you could add a pop of colour in our Flow Blue Turquoise Linen Viscose Blend.
Flow Blue Turquoise Linen Viscose Blend Fabric
Named Clothing Helga Wrap Playsuit
Alternatively our range of Serene Sandwashed Viscose fabric would pair well with this pattern.
The White Dress
Serene Sandwashed Viscose in Solid White
Sew House 7 Wildwood Wrap Dress
The white dress is a summer staple. It’s ability to keep you cool is ideal in the hot weather, and linen or viscose fabric will also be breathable. Our range of Serene Sandwashed Viscose is perfect for summer in any colour and perfect for a drapey wrap dress for a special occasion.
The Pauline Alice Coeli blouse lengthened to a dress in linen is perfect for those days when you want as little fabric as possible touching you!
Breeze White Enzyme Washed Pure Linen
For more summer sewing inspiration have a look at our “Summer Trends 2022” blog for more ideas and a run down of the seasons top trends.
Stay cool and happy sewing!
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Tencel™️ Lyocell is a beautiful fabric to wear. It is soft, breathable, comfortable and lightweight. It has a silky feeling next to your skin and once you fall for it you will want to wear it forever.
Tencel™️ Lyocell is a cellulose fibre made from wood pulp, similar to viscose or rayon, but has a more sustainable manufacturing process. The raw fibres used are from sustainable sources and the manufacturing process uses nano technology in a ‘closed loop’ process that eliminates waste.
So what can you make with it? Tencel is perfect for a wide range of garments including dresses, skirts, tops, jumpsuits, lightweight jackets and coats or trousers. It comes in different weights and can be blended with different fibres to create a different look to the final garment.
Fabric Tips
When working with Lyocell, especially any that have been Sandwashed, you will need to take extra care when washing your fabric. Wash on a cold cycle (max 30 degrees) and low spin, do not leave it in the washing machine once the cycle has finished and line dry were possible. Lyocell may develop faded lines over time, this is a quality of the fabric to be embraced as it absorbs so much colour during the dying process. However if you take care when washing it you will not notice much change.
Lyocell fabric is tightly woven which is what gives it its beautiful drape and handle. Make sure you use a Microtex needle and sharp pins when sewing with this fabric.
Dresses
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Navy
Sewing Patterns By Masin Sicily Slip Dress
Dresses are a great option for Lyocell fabrics. They have a beautiful drape and hang really well. A slip dress in this fabric will be a little more stable as it has a heavier weight and drape than viscose.
Meet MILK Puff Light Diamond Jaquard with Tencel™️ fibres
Tilly and the Buttons Indigo Smock dress with Add On Pack
The Indigo dress with add on puff sleeves and extra tiers is the perfect romantic style for Tencel™️ fabrics. Choose a light colour like the Puff Diamond Jacquard above for spring and summer or a darker shade with a print for winter like the Meet MILK Whimsy Dark Navy with TENCEL™️ Lyocell fibres.
Whimsy in Dark Night
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Ochre
Papercut Patterns Meridian Dress
Wrap dresses and tie details will add interest to this beautiful fabric. The Wildwood Wrap Dress or Meridian Dress will both work with Lyocell.
Meet MILK Cider Light Diamond Jacquard with TENCEL™️ Lyocell Fibres
Sew House 7 Wildwood Wrap Dress
Meet MILK Whimsy with TENCEL™️ Lyocell Fibres in Frog and Purple Night
The Meet MILK Whimsy print is perfect for colour blocking to recreate this Rixo dress. Lyocell is perfect for making most type of dresses and can transform a pattern from something casual to something quiet luxurious. Scroll on down for more inspiration.
White Flowers on Green TENCEL™️ Lawn Fabric
This lightweight and drapey TENCEL™️ Lawn is perfect for a statement off the shoulder dress. The latest release from Lore Pair- the Nansu Dress, can be styled both off the shoulder or tied up around the neckline to cover your shoulder in the chilly evenings. This dress is perfect for summer parties.
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Rose
A 60’s inspired mini dress will have beautiful movement in our Lush Sandwashed Lyocell.
Meet MILK Amber Hoya Linen Jacquard with TENCEL™️ Lyocell Fibres
The latest issue of Fibre Mood contained the on-trend Viva dress, which would be perfect in our Hoya Jacquard Linen Blend. This fabric will hold the structure of the sleeve while still giving lots of movement to the skirt and ruffle.
Tops, Trousers and Jackets
Meet MILK Blue Mist Two Tone Slim Stripe with TENCEL™️ Lyocell Fibres
Drapey tops and blouses are perfect for Lyocell fabrics and can work especially well for smart workwear garments.
Meet MILK Two Tone Stripe Twill in Puff with TENCEL™️ Lyocell Fibres
Our own exclusive “Garden of Dreams” collection features 3 Tencel™️ Sateens. The Midnight Blooms print is perfect for creating some ‘secret pyjama’s’ using the Homer & Howells Blair Blazer and Maud Trousers. This set can be easily dressed up or down depending on the occasion and wore as separate pieces too.
Midnight Blooms Tencel™️ Sateen
Homer & Howell’s Blair Blazer and Maud Trousers
Tencel is also perfect for making a lightweight jacket or trench coat like the Deer & Doe Passiflore dress and jacket. This can work as a layer over a dress in the chilly evenings or layered with a sweater coming in to autumn, and of course can also be wore as a dress.
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell Twill in Cream
Deer & Doe Passiflore Coat and Dress
Jumpsuits
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell in Black
Closet Core Patterns Amy Jumpsuit
A jumpsuit in Lyocell will be a real work horse item in your wardrobe. Paired with a blazer and heels it will take you from the office to bar, while with trainers and a casual jacket it will be an easy weekend outfit. All while feeling extremely comfortable.
Meet MILK Frog Two Tone Check with TENCEL™️ Lyocell fibres
Papercut Patterns Sierra jumpsuit
Lush Sandwashed Lyocell in Red
Closet Core Patterns Blanca Flightsuit
For more inspiration for what you can sew with Tencel™️ Lyocell have a look at our “Lamazi Garden of Dreams Exclusive Fabrics Inspiration” blog. This fabric will add a touch of luxury to your me made wardrobe.
]]>Sewing with large scale prints can feel a little daunting sometimes. It can be hard to choose a pattern that will showcase the print in the right way.
We have gathered together some inspiration from Ready to Wear brands and some of our favourite patterns that will work for large scale prints and paired them with the latest collection of Viscose Linen Noil from Mind the MAKER.
The Shift Dress
Sew Over It Ultimate Shift Dress and Mind the MAKER Oda Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Plum and Rosewood.
A simple shift dress can often be overlooked when choosing a pattern but when working with a large scale print the large, uninterrupted pattern pieces are ideal. The Sew Over It Ultimate Shift Dress or Megan Nielsen River Dress are both perfect options.
Megan Nielsen River Dress and Mind the MAKER Oda Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Black and Old Rose
The Shirt Dress
Paper Theory Olya Shirt Dress and Mind the MAKER Oda Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Forest Green and Pumpkin.
If a shift dress is not your style a shirt dress with no waist seam is ideal. This will provide the same uninterrupted surface while adding some extra interest and detail.
The Paper Theory Olya shirt dress will allow you to play with the direction of the print with the interesting sleeve construction. If you want something without this detail the Marsha Style x Sew LaLa Alea shirt is a great option.
Marsha Style x Sew LaLa Alea Shirt Dress and Mind the Maker Ivy Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Indigo Night.
For a more relaxed take on the shirt dress you could lengthen the Sew Liberated Matcha Top into an easy to wear summer dress.
Sew Liberated Matcha Top and Mind the Maker Ivy Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Bottle Green.
Print Mixing
Sasha McCall’s pattern and Mind the Maker Circle Circus Viscose Linen Noil.
Don’t be afraid to mix these prints up. Choosing 2 different colours from the same print or mixing 2 prints which contain the same colours is easy when you know they will match perfectly. A wrap dress is an easy way to mix prints, choosing a different colour or style for each half. Another option is the Trend Patterns Bias T-shirt dress which was made for colour blocking.
Trend Patterns Bias T-Shirt Dress and Mind the MAKER Ivy Brush Viscose Linen Noil
Jumpsuits
Sew Over It Poppy Playsuit and Mind the Maker Circle Circus Viscose Linen Noil in Sienna.
If you don’t want to break up the print too much the Poppy Playsuit by Sew Over It is perfect, as it has minimal seams and a grown on sleeve. For something with more detail the Sew Love Patterns Springe Jumpsuit is a great option, especially if you have a special event coming up this summer. With a more abstract, large scale print like the Ivy Brush print you do not need to worry about breaking up the print, it will still have the same impact.
Sew Love Patterns Springe Jumpsuit and Mind the MAKER Ivy Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Indigo Night.
Separates
Helen’s Closet Gilbert Top and Donovan Skirt and Mind the MAKER Circle Circus Viscose Linen Noil in Green Khaki
Another great option is to create separate pieces that can be worn together or individually. As you can see in the set above from Anthropology, a large scale circle print can work well for a skirt and shirt combo. The Helen’s Closet Gilbert Top and Donovan Skirt are both great options.
Again, if you would like something with more detail the Papercut Patterns Estella pattern has multiple options including a dress, top and skirt which can be worn in different ways.
Papercut Patterns Estella and Mind the MAKER Oda Brush Viscose Linen Noil in Green Khaki and Dry Mustard
To see all these fabrics in action head over to our YouTube channel to watch Liana’s Fabric Focus. Or for more Ready to Wear inspiration check out our Pinterest board.
]]>We all know how frustrating it can be to match fabrics when shopping online. We are pleased to present our latest colour bundles- “Make an Outfit” with the aim to take the guess work out of choosing coordinating fabrics online.
We have curated fabric bundles with one printed viscose poplin or cotton lawn, the most pleasing fabrics to work with, and a coordinating colour from our very popular Flow Viscose Linen range.
We have pulled together some outift inspiration for these colour bundles, along with pattern suggestions for you. Of course these suggestions are not limited to these colours bundles and apply to any mix of solid and printed fabrics. Why not try a monochrome look using coordinating Mind the MAKER or Meet MILK fabrics.
A printed top and plain coloured bottoms it the easiest way to style these fabrics and allows you to style the top with different bottoms or jeans. Choose a shirt or loose top like the Hailey Shirt or Cielo Top paired with tailored bottoms or shorts like The Culottes or Pietra Trousers and Shorts.
Abstract Petals with Pink and Green Linen Bundle
Summer Haze Brown Viscose Poplin with Linen Fabric
Experimental Space Hailey Shirt, The Avid Seamstress The Culottes
Daisy Blue Viscose with Blue Linen, Experimental Space Hailey Shirt, The Avid Seamstress The Culottes
Golden Rose Cotton Lawn with Blue Linen
Closet Core Patterns Cielo Top, Closet Core Patterns Pietra Shorts
Daisy Blue Viscose with Blue Linen
Paper Theory Olya Shirt, Tilly and the Buttons Jessa Trousers.
An alternative look is to use the print for your bottoms and soft Flow linen for the top. Using the print for the bottom half will make more of a statement and again, both items can be mixed with other pieces.
Rainbow Stripe Seersucker with Lilac and Yellow Linen
Tilly and the Buttons Stevie Top, Deer & Doe Chardon Skirt.
Summer Haze Viscose Poplin with Plum and Dark Green Linen
Paper Theory Block Tee, Sew Liberated Estuary Skirt.
Mirage Oasis Viscose Fabric with Cotton Sweatshirting
Closet Core Patterns Mile End Sweater and Fiore Skirt
Pastel Dream Viscose with Turquoise Blue Linen
Closet Core Patterns Cielo Top, Closet Core Patterns Pietra Shorts
Another versatile option is to make a jacket and bottoms set. This can be paired with a simple jersey t-shirt. Either the printed or solid fabric will provide the perfect summer cover up. Choose a loose style jacket pattern or a shirt dress or wrap dress to wear as both a jacket and dress.
Rainbow Stripe Seersucker with Lilac and Yellow Linen
Papercut Patterns Juno Jacket, Closet Core Patterns Fiore Skirt.
Golden Rose Cotton Lawn with Blue Linen
Paper Theory Olya Shirtdress, Paper Theory Miller Trousers.
Summer Haze Viscose Poplin with Plum and Dark Green Linen
Mirage Oasis Viscose Fabric with Iris Viscose Crepe
Sew Liberated Lichen Duster, Sew Liberated Arenite Trousers.
Windy Pine Green Viscose Crepe with Viscose Poplin Fabric
Sew Liberated Lichen Duster and Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit
Abstract Petals with Pink and Green Linen Bundle
Cashmerette Roseclair Dress, The Avid Seamstress The Culottes
We can’t wait to see what outfit combinations you create from these colour bundles. For more outfit inspiration have a look at our “Make An Outfit” Pinterest board. Happy sewing!
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