As soon as we saw this cute summer top from French brand Sezane we knew we had to have a go at recreating it. The ruffles add a lovely touch to this simple summer top and can give you the opportunity to play about with different fabrics to create a contrast or use up some scraps and remnants.
Image: Sezane
We decided to make it in our Embroidered Wildflower on Caramel Cotton as the wide selvedge would give the opportunity to play with the plain and embroidered features of the fabric.
This top is constructed entirely of rectangles so it is easy to create the pattern pieces yourself. We decided the easiest option and the one that used less fabric was to gather the larger piece of the top and ruffles and topstitch the 'non-ruffle' or flat piece on top. One other option we thought of was to sandwich the ruffles between 2 layers of fabric, but this would still require topstitching the fabric, or use elastic to create the gathered effect on both the straps and top.
First sample piece
The only measurement needed for this top is your upper bust measurement. For the flat piece that the main top is attached to you will use your upper bust plus 5cm ease (for getting on and off). The finished width of all the flat straps is 4cm on Sharlene's top, with 1cm added either side for pressing under. You can make these pieces wider if you prefer or cut in 2 separate pieces if your fabric is not wide enough.
The straps will be approximately 45cm long but this depends on various things like your height. A good way to judge the right length is to measure an existing top or your bra strap. Add on an extra 5 to 10 cm just incase (it's better to be too long than too short). The width of the flat piece is 6cm (finished width plus 1cm beachside to press under) and the width of the ruffle is 8cm (approximately 2cm ruffle either side of the strap) plus hem allowance if required (see below for hem methods). You will need 2 of each strap piece and one of each of the main top pieces.
For the top Sharlene made, the length is 40cm (bringing it just below her waist) and the width was 126cm (the width of the fabric minus the selvedge).
List of pieces Sharlene used:
Main top: 126cm wide x 42cm long
Flat piece for top (band): 94cm (upper bust) plus 7cm (5cm ease and 2cm seam allowance)
2 Flat strap: 45cm x 6cm
2 Strap ruffle: 67.5cm x 8cm
An example of some other measurements can be found in the table below as a guide. These measurements do not include seam allowance so remember to add this to the length/width. Remember to adjust the length of your top and straps to suit your own presences and measurements. These are just a guide.
| Upper Bust | Main band width | Main top | Strap Length | Ruffle length |
| 90 | 95 | 135 | 45 | 67.5 |
| 115 | 120 | 180 | 50 | 75 |
| 130 | 135 | 195 | 55 | 82.5 |
Example of layout for 135cm wide fabric and upper bust 130cm:
Getting an idea of what the finished garment will look like
All the pieces cut out and interfaced
After you have cut your pieces the straps can all be pressed in by 1cm. If your fabric is lightweight you may want to interface these pieces too.
Edges pressed in by 1cm
Before sewing the gathering stitches we have hemmed the strap ruffles and main top piece. This will be easier to do now compared to after the gathering stitches have been sewn or gathered. We used our overlocker to do a rolled hem finish on these pieces, you can find a tutorial on our instagram page on how to do this here. A narrow rolled hem will also work here, for a tutorial on how to do this you can watch our reel here.
Image of rolled hem done on an overlocker
Next step is to gather all the pieces. The distance between your gathering stitches should be 4cm (or the finished width of your flat pieces). For tips to make gathering easier check out this reel on instagram.
4cm distance between gathering stitches
Once the gathering stitches have been sewn you can sew the ends of the main top piece and top flat piece together to create a loop.
Side seams of top sewn
The next step is to topstitch the flat piece down to the ruffles and main top. We have another video tutorial with tips for making topstitching easier by using your Blindhem foot.
Take your time pinning these pieces in place and adjust the gathering as you go.
Flat strap pinned to ruffle piece
Reverse side of strap after pressing
Topstitching using a blind hem foot
After the pieces have been topstitched it is time to attach the straps. It is easiest to attach them to the back first so you can pin the front in the right position. We left a gap of approximately 20cm between the straps. Again you can measure the distance between the back straps on your bra or another top to get an idea of the right distance. The straps can be topstitched carefully on top of the existing topstitching.
Back of the straps pinned before stitching down.
Pinning the straps in the right position at the front
Twill tape and snap on inside of strap to hold in place
Once you are happy with the position of your straps these can be topstitched down. We also added loops and snaps on the inside of the top to stop the straps from slipping down (saving all the twill tape from your orders comes in handy!). The only step remaining is to remove the gathering stitches and then enjoy wearing your new top.
Sharlene wearing her top in Embroidered Wildflower on Caramel Cotton and jeans made in our 9oz Recycled Cotton Stretch Denim
This cotton is now available in more colours here.
Depending on the width of fabric and how full you would like it and how long, this top can be made from a relatively small piece of fabric. You can also lengthen it and make a summer dress.
We would recommend lightweight fabrics for this to make the gathering and topstitching easier- Viscose or lightweight Cotton Lawn or Poplin are ideal.
Let us know if you make a top using this tutorial, we would love to see it!