Jumpsuits- love them or dislike them they are a style that’s growing in momentum and is definitely here to stay. My sewing journey started around 8 years ago and then jumpsuit patterns were in small supply and not exactly what I was looking for. Scrolling through IG I discovered Sew La Di La Vintage “Margo Playsuit” and I loved the shape and that was the beginning of my jumpsuit obsession...
I used the trousers part of this pattern and hacked By Hand London bodices onto it to change the shape. I did this for a while until the indie pattern makers inevitably started creating some great ones.
Fast forward I have made almost 80 including dungaree styles and I absolutely love wearing them and honestly you get over the toilet issue!
I do believe there is a pattern out there for everyone. Before I give you my opinion, I would like to say if you feel comfortable then it’s your style, there isn’t any right or wrongs in dressmaking. That’s why we sew isn’t it?
A starting point is to balance your body shape.
Look at it two halves top and bottom. Then choose patterns to complement each half. An indication of this is trying separates to create the silhouette you love (i.e. fitted or loose top and slim or wide leg trousers). Then either hack the patterns together or find a similar pattern.
You may think it’s harder to hack to create your perfect combination but it’s easier than you think. We all remember Juliette's jumpsuit hack from the Sewing Bee don’t we? (Permission given to use this image)
Hacked By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit by Juliet Uzor
All bodice patterns have the waist line printed so you can add your sewing allowance and I also check the lengths with a tried and tested pattern for the length.
No one wants a hungry bum. Or the dreaded camel toe. This can be rectified by following this tutorial from Genie Centre. For further information on trouser fitting Closet Core Patterns has a blog detailing the most common adjustments.
It’s important to match your fabric to pattern (in all sewing this can make or break your make) depending on the pattern you choose. I’ve used an array of fabrics from linen, viscose, liberty lawn to silk.
Fastenings can make such a difference for the accessibility situation. A zip is the easiest, Closet Core Blanca jumpsuit incorporates this. Tilly and the Buttons Alexa has a button fastening. One of my favourites the Springe Jumpsuit by Sew Love patterns which has a mid back zip fastening with a button closure at the neckline, this is also easy to get on and off.
If I’ve tempted you I would try a favourite pair of trousers and a top/blouse to see what you feel comfortable in. If you made it in the same material you could opt for a faux jumpsuit but really…? Just go for it!
Start with Sew House -7 Burnside Bibs or Helen’s Closet - Yanta overalls this way you can experiment with blouse shapes underneath to learn what truly suits your body shape and most importantly what you feel comfortable in.
This amazing one I made using Lamazi exclusive “Pebbles Cotton Sateen” is a French pattern that unfortunately isn’t size inclusive. I changed the back to make it bra friendly. I definitely will be using this again to hack into, yes, more jumpsuits!
To see more of Jen’s jumpsuits check out her instagram @jenlegg_teescreatives