Hi! it’s Victoria from @victorialucilleanne,
Today I am going to talk with you about this labor of love that I worked on with beautiful viscose fabric called Summer Flow from Lamazi Fabrics! This fabric is so lightweight and so lovely! It has woven colourful stripes and comes in three different colour options. It is so perfect for summer and very breathable. The flow of the fabric lends itself to many types of garments, including dresses, relaxed blouses, skirts, culottes, and last but not least, jumpsuits! It worked perfectly for this pattern! This jumpsuit was not a super quick make as the waistband is a little involved but it was so worth it!
When I saw the flow and colors on this fabric, I immediately thought of this jumpsuit. I was looking for something that would speak summer to me and be able to flow while wearing my sandals and walking along the beach! It was a lovely fabric to start with. The fabric has great weight as well which helps it look great with this pattern. It is very easy to sew with and although it has stripes, you don’t have to worry about matching anything! They are all vertical stripes...phew! I decided to ignore matching anything at the shoulders seams although you technically could try!!!! There are three color ways available but I chose this one because I liked the bright colors and some of the orange hues. I had some tangerine linen in my stash that I wanted to use for contrast (which is built into the pattern) so I selected this color linen to pair with this fabric from Lamazi!
My first tip with this pattern is to pay attention to the width of your fabric. I am overall a size small for the top portion of the pattern but I did grade out to a medium for the waistline and waistband/belt portion and the pants! With this in mind, you have to know that this fabric is not quite 60 inches wide. I typically don’t worry about this but apparently the pattern layout was using every single inch! Therefore, it was not quite wide enough by a few inches to place the pieces as they were meant to be placed for a size small! However, I was making a small on the top and medium on the bottom and the bottom pieces could not fit next to eachother. I looked at the pattern and it was clear that the medium needed extra fabric. I just looked at the fabric requirements for a small! No big deal but make sure you pay attention!!
Next, because this fabric has contrast pieces, you need to look closely at your pattern pieces! I used my contrast fabric for my lining and for the “contrast” pieces of course. You can use a different fabric for your lining if you desire. You will also need a little bit of interfacing for this project as well! Gather all of your materials before you start as usual!
I followed the instructions very closely and I didn’t have a lot of trouble. However, I was going very slowly and separated the project over a few days! I changed a few things and I will go through these below!
The pattern instructed you to do French seams but I changed my serger thread and just finished the seam with a serger. I stitched the seams right side together as normal and then I serged the raw edges! I think it looks super nice!
I also decided that stitching in the ditch for the contrast bias binding is not for me. In fact, it is never for me! I just edge stitch the bias binding on the right side and make sure it is catching the under side folded edge that has not yet been attached to the garment. It usually does not fail to catch the folded edge as you were originally planning to stitch in the ditch and this is further in!
There is one very big tip that I would like to share that was vital for me to be able to avoid frustration with sewing the small ties!
I use the yarn technique for turning tiny tubes right side out. This is a very simple technique and is very useful. I usually pre-press the bias binding right sides together so that it folds easily while sewing.
Then I grab some scrap yarn that is thin enough to be inserted in the fold and not be sewn when I stitch the seam allowance of the bias binding.
The first step is to lock the yarn in by stitching over the short edge and having a good tail of the yarn sticking out. You do not want it to slip into the tie and out of the seam. I usually backstitch a few times to make sure it is secure in there!
Then you simply sew down the long edge with your regular seam allowance and be sure that you are not catching the yarn and it is buried into the fold.
Now you need to trim your seam allowances to a 1/4 inch or less. Don’t cut through your stitching!!!
I then start to pull the yarn and slowly bunch up the fabric. I pull and try to help it get started to start turning it!
Once you get it started then you just keep on going slowly and eventually you will see the turned tube pop out the other side. You can also use a pin to pull out the very point so it is crisp.
Voila!!! It looks gorgeous! Perfect tube!!! You can cut off the yarn and pull any loose threads so that you cannot see it any longer.
Now, I am not going to go through it, but I suggest paying very close attention to the waistband portion and going very slowly. I almost made several very bad mistakes! It’s a little bit involved for this part!
When sewing the pants, I didn’t run into a lot of trouble in general and everything went in smoothly. I think that the hem was a bit too long so I turned it up by a large amount twice and then stitched it by machine instead of hand stitching it!
That is pretty much it everyone!! I hope you enjoyed my blog and please let me know if you have any questions!!!